throb's Logbook (4 ascents)

The first pitch is nice, but bring plenty of thin pro for the first pitch. Bring doubles on 0,1,and 2 Metolius and a 00 comes in handy. The crux move on P2 is cool though short. It protects very well. You can rap off the first pitch or scramble down the chimney behind the buttress.

The crux is the first pull off the beginning ledge and has no good pro. The rest of the route is wet a lot and wanders. Use lots of slings or just run it out.

I first did Sundial in 1984, but I just realized the other day that you can connect P1 and P2 with a 60m. You have at least 20' left. Use long slings especially on the first pitch and an extra long one if you are going to clip the P1 anchors as a piece of pro.

The route starts just right of trees right of Short Man's Sorrow, just right of the water streak but left of a white streak. It starts with a 5' slab to a 10' right leaning crack. The bolts are straight up about 80' in the dark rock. there are three bolts with two being Metolius rap hangers. The second pitch is 180' to a large pine with slings and rap rings. you will need a 60 meter rope to lead the pitch. Two 60s are best for rapping off, but you can get down with a 60m and a 50m if you let the joining knot be about 15' below the anchor tree. The gear is great on the first pitch and reasonable on the second. Pitch 2 is about 5.4. It trends up and right through the lighter colored rock then back left to the pine tree at the top. It's frequently wet, so when it's dry, some of the eyebrows can be a little dirty. It was not a problem. The route was perfect to take novices on thier first multi-pitch climb.