tim_b's Logbook (28 ascents)

Jason and I did this route, to the left of the Roof. Pretty committing move getting off the 3rd bolt, onto a slippery face with only a small hand pinch to keep from peeling. It's 15ft to the next bolt, so a fall there would be a 30 footer over the roof, dangling !

Did this route with Sandra. I have to admit, it was a little tenuous, much harder than I think the grade warrants. The crux for me was on P1 just above the last bolt, below the 2 chains. Took me 10 minutes to figure it out after 4 attempts/restarts. Fingertips, insercure feet and bulge pinches was all I could muster to make it ! The wind made it impossible to hear belayer, wicking away valuable energy, and the cold made the toes feel like blocks of ice ! I'm definitely coming back when it's warmer. Took a 2nd rope up with me for the rap. Another party, after us, had only one 60mm rope, and it left them just below the 2nd bolt, for a nasty downclimb, so I helped 'em out with about 30 feet of my rope. They were stoked !

Start to the left and below the traditional start to get an extra pitch of the climb (some type of variation). Linked up with the standard route by traversing left, and wound up in the traditional P2 belay slot (with a 10 ft. downclimb). Smooth sailing from there. Sandra got to do her first *real* hand jams on the way up, huffing and puffing like a champion. Had the whole day in the shade (Brrr) but got nice 70-degree sun on the top. GREAT DAY CLIMBING.

Nick and I did this classic. P1 protected well below the crux, but bring a micronut above the overhang. Stretched P2 and belayed just below the chimney. P3 Chimney, awkward to get out ! #4 Camelot was perfect, and the rusty pin and ring are still there. Stretched P4/P5 with our 60m rope, but not all easy climbing ! We "ran" up the final pitches to beat the rain, and it started pouring just as we laced up our walk-down shoes, only to be drenched by the time we hit the parking lot.
Nick led P1, P3, P6, me P2, P4/5 and P7.

I carried my little hydration pack and dangled it between my legs on a long sling to do the P3 Chimney pitch.

Did this route with Jason B., Him, pitches 1-3-5, Me pitches 2-4-6. I erroneously belayed at the teeny ledge right NEXT to the J-crack (3 pieces in, but no way to do equalized anchor there). Jason face-climbed the J-Crack in about 20 seconds, which inspired me to do same. I'm still wondering who put the new bolt/hanger on P4 below about 20-25' below the crux. It wasn't there last summer (I did, however, clip it). For P5 lead, Jason did the variation straight up, instead of veering right. I recommend this, as it makes a more exciting finish. BTW, I've done this route 3x and it is still fun and exciting every time.

Dave S. and I did this in 11 1/2 pitches with double 50m ropes. We got sleet buildup on the upper 4 pitches. Bring rain/cold gear to avoid any epic ! Definitely recommended by me. Start early.

Dave S. and I did this thing from dawn til afternoon. Amazing climb with lots of exposure. Tough first pitch, since it was my FIRST 5.9 trad lead !

Dave S. and I did this with 50m double ropes in 7 pitches.

Took Eric, on his 3rd day in the sport ! (day 1, Big Rock @ Lake Perris, working feet, day 2 in gym working cracks and falling, day 3 White Maiden's!). I led every pitch. Eric did ok, considering he'd never been 500' off the deck. He only had trouble on one pitch, when I had to tell him to stop, chill, hang, and collect. Then he shimmy'd right up to the belay (a little shaken !) Great beginner multi-pitch. Be quick, or you'll be walking down in the dark, so bring head-lamps for your slow second). It's easy to get off route, so study the book, or your noob 2nd will HATE you....

We came up from Jam Crack, and wound up moving the belay up & to the left about 10-15ft, using the vertical crack right by the starting flake. Dave led P1, got 4 pieces in and slipped off, right at the crux, cuz he was flamed. Not good rests for placing gear. Then I went (on gear he placed). Looks like a pretty good lead. Must be quick on placements. Once you pull crux, can rest as long as you like! To me, this goes off harder than the 5.7 grade !