ultraviolet's Logbook (7 ascents)

Here is the real beta for any aspiring maniacs wishing to tick the Swines In Flight

The route is X.

Pitch 1:
Is dirty and uninspiring until the last 25 feet of steep beautiful, unprotected headwall with the final move being 10a, reachy and insecure. A fall here with 120 feet of rope out would be 60+ feet with dikes to hit. Probably non fatal (R/X?)

Pitch 2: I led and did a short 50 foot pitch to allow a belay out of the corner and for Chuck to lead to the top in one. It was 5.9 with a handicap bump of 2 letter grades for my impressive "dos zapatos izquierdos" feat of feet

Pitch 2.5/3
The first gear is 35 feet out and to get there requires (in our case. I think Chad drifted further right and perhaps the FA did too?) a 5.9 traversing move without hands on a pretty small dike. A fall from here is certain to crash onto big mean rocks and at least a maiming before bouncing and falling another 40' ("R/X" if less than 5 bones broken. "X" for drooling head injury or death which is quite possible)
The next 100 feet was quality and PG/R.
Then the traverse left for 12 feet on a sketchy nut and pull the roof 10a R.

The last 50 feet once above the roof starts easy and then ends up on horrible low angle blankish and filthy dirty overlapping small roofs with little gear. The last roof is 10 feet above a low ball with 140 feet of rope out on insecure moss/lichen covered slab roofs. Awful. A skate off the finishing moves (which would be simple to accomplish) would be a 40 feet IF the lowball slider nut held and 60+ if not. ("R/X" depending on how many dikes one hit on the great tumbling fall).

Enjoy the trip and don't forget to write

Climbed the 50 feet above the anchor which is obscure and run out. Probably 5.9. Can reach around and clip the last bolt on adjacent climb otherwise it would be super runout

Solid moves on knobs and sticky rubber makes this X route a doable concept, but definately a "zero tolerance" fall policy.
Led after a TR the day before.

Needs a second!

Put with Jerry Klatt. Bolted on rap.
Definately need a piece or two at bottom unless your a 5.12 climber. Better than appears from ground. Really fun

Put with Jerry Klatt. Bolted on rap.
Definately need a piece or two at bottom unless your a 5.12 climber. Better than appears from ground. Really fun

Put with Jerry Klatt. Bolted on rap.
Definately need a piece or two at bottom unless your a 5.12 climber. Better than appears from ground. Really fun