williamkkelley's Logbook (31 ascents)

First half of the climb is very easy class 5 until 3rd bolt. Double wrap ring anchor. It had just rained and the climb was wet but juggy enough to not really matter.

Great route. Bring plenty of slings for natural pro (dinner plate rocks that can be slung).

Funny climb with a hard mantle to start up a short ramp into a overhang with a big face move and easy slab to the finish

Set up TR from bolt anchors. There is a slightly harder variation by trying to stay to the left on your way up

Easy route with the crux and the beginning in a mini corner and at the top out where it gets slabby. The climb traverses a lot for such a short climb so bring some runners.
Gear used:
Camalot 3, 2, 2, 1, 0.75, 0.5
Metolius Master Cam 3, 1
BD #8 Nut
Metolius #10 Astro Nut
Anchor:
Camalot # 4, 1, .4

I was taking my SPI exam with Bob Gaines and he suggested this climb. While belaying for the other person taking the exam Bob mentioned that he had the first ascent on the climb back in 98 and I got to watch him climb it!
Fun climb but a little run out to the first bolt, more of a bolted trad climb than a sport climb.

Did a Aid Solo up this route and kept a list of all the gear I placed. Put together a couple of moves in the middle at around 5.6 and finished free the last 20 feet at 5.3. After top out there is a 15 foot chimney around 5.3 that I climbed unprotected to get over to the walk down or rap anchors. The rap is more than 30m from the anchors to the right of right ski track.
Gear used:
Camalot: 4, 3, 3, 2, 2, 2, 2, 1, 1, 1, .75
Metolius Power Cam 8, 7
Metolius Master Cam 3
BD Grapling Hook (mostly just for fun)
Several pieces were used multiple times. The #4 Camalot was really helpful for protecting the easy moves up top, otherwise you might need to run it out to the finish.

climbed this as a second pitch to Transporter Crack 5.6. After a short traverse left from the anchors at the top of transporter crack, follow crack up the middle of the face. It is the second prominent crack you will come to when traversing, the first is Impulse Power 5.4.
I was nervous to rap from these anchors because I was over 80 feet up and couldn't see if the rope reached the ground when I trough it so I rapped to the anchors at transporter crack and did it in two rappels. Other comments imply that you can rap from these anchors but I would imagine you need at least a 60 m rope.

climbing this route and belay from the bolt anchors 40 feet up gives you the opportunity to do a multipitch (though a short one) doing a second pitch off The Wrath of Kahn 5.8, Crack of Kingons 5.6, Beam Me Up Scotty 5.6, Impulse Power 5.4, or Tractor Beam 5.8R. I went up Beam Me Up, Scotty 5.6. YOu did have to traverse along a large ledge that you could protect if you wanted but I was confortable enough to risk the swing potential of a fall.

fun extension to crescendo worth doing