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SamScott
Aug 5, 2008, 10:54 PM
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I prefer being in a gym than outside. Climbing outside has in my experience been slow and bumbling. I've never pushed myself as I do inside.
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patmay81
Aug 5, 2008, 11:06 PM
Post #52 of 105
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I can understand a gym being harder than face climbs at the crag, I mean the plastic gets all chalky and slimy and very hard to crimp. but to prefer the gym to outdoors? do you live in Florida or something? A bad day at the crag is a thousand times better than the best day in a gym!
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SamScott
Aug 5, 2008, 11:10 PM
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I live in the Lake District it's pretty much all trad. +Of my two climbing partners one was my mother  and the other was retarded enough to stand on his rope while leading and take a 10 ft fall and breaking his wrist.
Climbing inside just appeals to me. I love the people and the climbs.
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patmay81
Aug 6, 2008, 12:20 AM
Post #54 of 105
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I suppose if I think back that is what I used to like about the gym too, the security of padded floors and closely spaced draws; and hanging out with friends. I haven't been inside a gym in years; since I graduated I lost all my friends and could care less about padded floors any more.
By the way, my current climbing partner (when I have one) is my dad. Its not so bad because he usually buys the beer and I know I can count on him to do whatever it takes to keep me from decking. I'm pretty sure he would jamb is finger in his atc if that's what it took, I doubt I'd get the same attention and concern from any other belayer!
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sungam
Aug 6, 2008, 7:29 AM
Post #55 of 105
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SamScott wrote: I live in the Lake District it's pretty much all trad. +Of my two climbing partners one was my mother and the other was retarded enough to stand on his rope while leading and take a 10 ft fall and breaking his wrist. Climbing inside just appeals to me. I love the people and the climbs.
Cumbria fuckin' rocks!
It's like a little wanna-be highlands that does a half decent job of be-ing.
Look dude, go on UKC, post up for a partner for Castle rock THIS WEEKEND, hook up with some dude/dudette, and go Climb "Overhanging Bastion" it's like VS and it will rock your sox off- a good time garenteed.
And if that don't catch the bug... you're doomed to be a gym gumby for ever. (or, if you are a rock master, drive/bus to malham or something, that'll put you through your paces and push you to your limits).
Another one to try would be the direct start to bracket and slab at gimmer (langdale, I think)
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SamScott
Aug 6, 2008, 1:26 PM
Post #56 of 105
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In reply to: You, sir, are an ass. Cumbria fuckin' rocks!
Im the fuckin Ray Mears of the north me. Don't tell me how awesome Cumbria is because I goddam live there. I'm more of a walker, hiker. The hills are my bitch.
Next summer maybe. I haven't touched a crag in months and ain't been to a gym in more.
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camhead
Aug 6, 2008, 1:33 PM
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I will admit, as far as lead climbing goes, I am WAY more scared in the gym than outside. The clips are way close together, so you can't get into any kind of rhythm, and usually the routes are short enough that you never get out of groundfall zone. Sketchy.
Leading outside is way less sketch.
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j_ung
Aug 6, 2008, 2:03 PM
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Hell, maybe your gym is just sandbagged. Or its routesetters suck.
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desertwanderer81
Dec 22, 2009, 12:02 AM
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rockgirlCO wrote: Not doing multi-pitch routes has lowered my endurance and there's not a darn thing climbing the gym will do about that! Just have to get outside (running, hiking, climbing multi-pitch).
I personally like to get on a moderate gym route, 5.10 or whatever and then climb it 5 times or so in a row with no break ;)
That will get you nice and out of breath!
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bill413
Jan 3, 2010, 2:30 PM
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One difference I haven't seen mentioned is that in the gym you can hop on routes faster than outdoors. Outside, you set up or lead/climb a route, pull the rope, move to a new climb, set up or lead/climb...the transitions take time.
In the gym, transitioning from route to route is quicker.
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rschap
Jan 3, 2010, 5:46 PM
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The only problem I see with this thread is shouldn’t be titled “Gyms are for Plastic masters!!!”?
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Toast_in_the_Machine
Jan 4, 2010, 1:40 AM
Post #63 of 105
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Gyms don't have offwidths. There was some hard ass guy here who used to specialize in climb sick off widths. He even wore socks under his shoes. He was that tough. Wonder what happened to him?
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quiteatingmysteak
Jan 4, 2010, 1:56 AM
Post #64 of 105
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angry wrote: I still don't understand how someone can crank at the gym and not outdoors. Move for move, the plastic is so much harder.
I larnt to climb in a gymnasium.
I can climb routes in the great outdoors way harder than I would even try when I was a gym rat.
The routes I used to send on the plastic, couldn't touch these days. Not even close. I head to the gym maybe once every other month and keep it around 5.9.
on TR.
You're good at what you do, mang. I'm not really good at anything...
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USnavy
Jan 4, 2010, 12:07 PM
Post #66 of 105
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angry wrote: I think pulling plastic is bar none, the HARDEST discipline to master in rock climbing. I give major props to those so called "gym rats" those little bastards are some of the fittest climbers on earth.
Please mention this to the numerous "5.12" gym climbers who came to Hawaii to visit and got their asses (repeatedly) kicked on 5.10 lines. I have yet to see a single gym climber lead anything in Hawaii even remotely close to the grade they say they lead in the gym.
(This post was edited by USnavy on Jan 4, 2010, 12:09 PM)
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I_do
Jan 5, 2010, 8:07 AM
Post #67 of 105
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USnavy wrote: angry wrote: I think pulling plastic is bar none, the HARDEST discipline to master in rock climbing. I give major props to those so called "gym rats" those little bastards are some of the fittest climbers on earth. Please mention this to the numerous "5.12" gym climbers who came to Hawaii to visit and got their asses (repeatedly) kicked on 5.10 lines. I have yet to see a single gym climber lead anything in Hawaii even remotely close to the grade they say they lead in the gym.
And I've yet to meet the first climber who climbs outside even a few days a year and doesn't climb harder outdoors then in the gym. That story is so old, most people who climb well in the gym will get really good really fast when they venture into the not so great outdoors.
Cheers
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mr.tastycakes
Jan 6, 2010, 2:50 PM
Post #68 of 105
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I_do wrote: And I've yet to meet the first climber who climbs outside even a few days a year and doesn't climb harder outdoors then in the gym.
*raises hand*
I got in over 50 days on rock last season (not counting running circuits at the local boulders), and I climb harder in the gym than I do outside. My gym simply offers a completely different style of climbing compared with the local outdoor stuff - 30 foot, severely overhanging, juggy gym routes don't prepare one very well for 150 long, vertical or slightly off-vertical trad routes with finicky gear. My indoor/outdoor bouldering level is more comparable.
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angry
Jan 6, 2010, 3:14 PM
Post #69 of 105
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Likely you are a very poorly consolidated climber.
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camhead
Jan 6, 2010, 3:33 PM
Post #70 of 105
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angry wrote: Likely you are a very poorly consolidated climber.
As cool as they are, the Gunks (which I assume he is talking about) is not an area that is representative of nationwide climbing. It is a bit more difficult to push yourself and break into higher grades there, since the gear often gets more finicky as the route difficulty increases. So, it is not surprising if the climber above can, say, climb 5.11 regularly in the gym, but can't touch it outside at his local area. It would be a very different story if he lived in Vegas, Denver, or Kentucky.
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jan 6, 2010, 4:09 PM
Post #71 of 105
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I_do wrote: And I've yet to meet the first climber who climbs outside even a few days a year and doesn't climb harder outdoors then in the gym. That story is so old, most people who climb well in the gym will get really good really fast when they venture into the not so great outdoors. Cheers
I agree that people who climb well in the gym get really good really fast when they venture outdoors, once they get used to it.
But I take exception to the statement that they then go ahead to climb HARDER outdoors than in the gym. (Unless the gym grades are really sandbagged)
They might TRY harder (be more motivated) to send a project outside-- that is true.
But I am yet to meet a person who climbs 5.10s in the gym and crushes 5.12 outside, if they regularly climb both in the gym and outside.
In my experience, it evens out. If you regularly climb both in the gym and outside, and if the gym grades and routes are representative of the real world (as much as that is possible), I do not see why there should be any significant difference.
I climb harder routes outside than in the gym -- because the gym doesn't set many topropes in that grade range. But when they do, I climb them.
I boulder harder in the gym-- because I've had a lot more time doing bouldering indoors than outside, and b/c I am a chicken when it comes to bad landings without a large gym pad under me.
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edge
Jan 6, 2010, 4:49 PM
Post #73 of 105
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cracklover wrote: But I can leavittate as good or better than anyone I know. GO
[cough]ahem[/cough]
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i_h8_choss
Jan 6, 2010, 4:55 PM
Post #74 of 105
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aid and solo aid = rock master
runout R trad routes = rock master
1st ascents on gear = rock master
fit little bastards = talented gym climbers
ice = ice master
tusf = STFU
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shockabuku
Jan 6, 2010, 5:31 PM
Post #75 of 105
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cracklover wrote: This is such a stupid discussion. You'll be better at the style you spend more time on. Duh. If 90% of your time is spent pulling plastic, of course you'll climb better in the gym than outdoors. Or if you spend 90% of your time outside, you'll likely get your ass kicked in the gym. On another topic: Toast_in_the_Machine wrote: Gyms don't have offwidths. I learned how to climb offwidth in a gym. In Boston. Of course, it only works in the size range (knee locks) that were in that gym. But I can leavittate as good or better than anyone I know. GO
I probably spend about 5 times more time in the gym than outside and I generally climb better outside. For me, it's very style dependent. In the gym I climb a lot of overhanging terrain, which is very challenging for me. Outside I generally run into combinations of slab (good for me), vertical (okay for me), and less overhang. I think I also climb better outdoors because I'm more psyched about the climbing.
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