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mapper94
Apr 27, 2006, 12:52 PM
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I am a New climber who climbs indoors. I see a lot of people taping their fingers, especially when bouldering. So here is my question, do most people tape their fingers to prevent injury, or to protect from a repeat injury? Does the tape help protect you fingers from injury, not just from getting cut up but protect the tendons as well?
I am just talking about finger taping not tape gloves, for those climbing cracks, I understand the reason there.
Thanks for any info.
Mapper94
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rhythm164
Apr 27, 2006, 1:02 PM
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Some people tape to prevent injury, some people tape to give extra support to their tendons. I tape for the latter reason as I hurt a tendon last season. It helps keep everything in place when done properly, although it definitly doesn't make things good as new and you still have to be aware of what situations will put undue stress on an injured tendon and obviously try to avoid them. Keep in mind that some people also tape to look cool. They're not fooling anybody. :lol:
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lagarita
Apr 27, 2006, 1:29 PM
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Your best bet, seeing as your a new climber still developing your finger strength, is to take it slow when training. Prevent injury in the first place so that you don't need to tape. eg. No excessive training on campus boards, power putty, finger boards or other hand held training devices.
It's hard because you want to get up to the high level climbs and you think you'll do it with better finger strength, part of that's true but you'll be grateful latter that you took it slower. tendons aren't like muscle, tearing in muscle is natural and that's how they get bigger. Tearing in tendons is BAD, they develop slower.
Good luck and climb safe.
Sean
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midwestishell
Apr 27, 2006, 2:02 PM
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If you do a search on line you will see several studies that were done on cadaver hands that showed that taping does little to prevent injury. Whether you believe their study system or not there is likely something to this. I am a bit skeptical of their conclusions myself. The responses above say it best. You really need to be smart about not hurting yourself when starting off.
I tape two fingers for the support reasons mentioned above, also following a previous tendon inuries. After climbing with tape on, my fingers don't ache nearly as much as when I don't tape at all. This might not be in line with the studies that have been done, but, it doesn't necessarily need to be scientific to feel good.
Th
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maracas
Apr 27, 2006, 2:25 PM
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I injured a tendon 3-4 years ago, was off climbing for about 3 months, then a pulley last year, off climbing for another 3 months.
While recovering last year I did some research on taping, the study mentioned and others all say that it does not work. My guess is that they are not climbers, as to me and all the older climbers (more probability of injury) it does work, for the two reasons you mentioned.
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bill413
Apr 27, 2006, 2:29 PM
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I think the majority of folks who tape (not for cracks) are taping in response to injuries already received. As such, the taping is usually specific to the weakness.
If you don't need to protect a damaged portion, taping isn't going to do much, since you won't really know where to direct it. That is, the way that I would tape to help agains elbow tendonitis is quite different from how I would tape to provide support for my middle finger, or from how I would tape to support my index finger, or my wrist.....
So - no injury - don't bother with tape. Better to train smart, pay attention to what your body is telling you, and keep climbing.
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kachoong
Apr 27, 2006, 2:52 PM
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In reply to: So - no injury - don't bother with tape. Better to train smart, pay attention to what your body is telling you, and keep climbing.
Taping for cracks is considered aid climbing and utilized by pusssies who can't stand the sight of blood! :wink:
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krusher4
Apr 27, 2006, 3:02 PM
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Both, I have luckly (cross fingers) been without injury for a while. So I will only tape up (the base of my middle fingers) on really hard (for me) climbs, just for the extra support. Just listen to your body. I think that gym climbs are a bit more prone to injury.
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eric_k
Apr 27, 2006, 4:39 PM
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what is the best way to prevent injury, just not training alot. Or are there finger exercises or something.
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el_jerko
Apr 27, 2006, 4:53 PM
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Having had some serious tendon injuries due to climbing and much discussion with medial personnel I will give my $.02:
Taping does very very little if anything to support tendons whether injured or not. I have been taping a finger that I tore a pulley tendon on, not to support the tendon, but to keep my finger from bending in order to avoid using the tendon. Other than that, I think it is a waste of time, other than reminding yourself that you are hurt as mentioned above.
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sspssp
Apr 27, 2006, 5:45 PM
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In reply to: what is the best way to prevent injury, just not training alot. Or are there finger exercises or something.
If you are climbing regularly, you probably shouldn't do finger excercises on top of that.
For sport/face climbing, work on developing an "open grip" and try to avoid the dreaded "reverse crimp". After years of chronic finger problems, I switched to an open grip for literally everything, no matter how "crimpy" (and managed to get up to 5.12 sport doing it).
Realize that your arm muscle/tendons gain power faster than your finger tendons gain strength. I once thought my finger tendons would limit me to 10+ climbing, but over the years they kept getting stronger.
To cut down on chronic inflamation, when you are done sport/bouldering, soak your fingers in ice water for 20 minutes.
Listen to your body. Don't overtrain. Take breaks when you have to.
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cragkiller
Apr 27, 2006, 6:06 PM
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some people prefer medical tape others use special climbing tape I like to use a combination of duct tape and glue the glue makes a fake protective layer of skin while the tape keeps it on :lol:
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boondock_saint
Apr 27, 2006, 9:37 PM
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In reply to: Having had some serious tendon injuries due to climbing and much discussion with medial personnel I will give my $.02: Taping does very very little if anything to support tendons whether injured or not. I have been taping a finger that I tore a pulley tendon on, not to support the tendon, but to keep my finger from bending in order to avoid using the tendon. Other than that, I think it is a waste of time, other than reminding yourself that you are hurt as mentioned above.
good post, too bad I can't rate today. I think taping does next to nothing medically. I mean for it to support the pulley (which is under your skin) you would have to put the tape on so tight you would cut off all circulation in the finger (which would then cause it to die and fall off).
I think it helps only because you immobilize the finger some and it is a constant reminder. It can also help, or so it seems to me, iby being extra cussion between finger and rock thereby reducing the pressure exerted on the finger and inner contents.
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sidepull
Apr 27, 2006, 10:51 PM
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In reply to: what is the best way to prevent injury, just not training alot. Or are there finger exercises or something.
search on this site for ARC or read the sticky thread on capiliarity and bouldering, second from the top in the technique and training forum.
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shanz
Apr 27, 2006, 11:02 PM
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seems like im always taping up --usually after im done climbing and usually because i shred my fingers when im in the gym... Never use tape out doors though
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shanz
Apr 27, 2006, 11:03 PM
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seems like im always taping up --usually after im done climbing and usually because i shred my fingers when im in the gym... Never use tape out doors though
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fluxus
Apr 29, 2006, 3:42 AM
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1) As was mentioned before, the idea of taping to support a tendon or pully in the finger is most likely bogus. If you look at the structure of the fingers it becomes pretty clear that to support a tendon or pulley you would have to tape your finger so tight that the tape would become incredably painful and cut off all circulation to the finger, which would make climbing impossible.
2) Taping to limit the range of motion of a finger is probably useful in some situations.
3) Taping to protect your skin is often a good idea. I find that on days when I am going to do a high volume of climbing, Taping before the warm-up makes the whole workout go better because my skin isn't buring like the devil by mid workout.
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dudemanbu
Apr 29, 2006, 4:06 AM
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What on earth is "the reverse crimp"?
In reply to: If you are climbing regularly, you probably shouldn't do finger excercises on top of that. For sport/face climbing, work on developing an "open grip" and try to avoid the dreaded "reverse crimp". After years of chronic finger problems, I switched to an open grip for literally everything, no matter how "crimpy" (and managed to get up to 5.12 sport doing it). Realize that your arm muscle/tendons gain power faster than your finger tendons gain strength. I once thought my finger tendons would limit me to 10+ climbing, but over the years they kept getting stronger. To cut down on chronic inflamation, when you are done sport/bouldering, soak your fingers in ice water for 20 minutes. Listen to your body. Don't overtrain. Take breaks when you have to. |
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miavzero
Apr 29, 2006, 4:38 AM
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Tape, much like seat belts, is nothing more than a crutch.
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overlord
Apr 29, 2006, 6:40 AM
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i tape to protect my skin. but i only do it if i KNOW theres some sharp holds on a route.
if i injure a tendo, i rest.
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