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Gmburns2000
May 4, 2011, 7:37 PM
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That's awesome Gail! Congrats to Mitch for the long road back!
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blueeyedclimber
May 9, 2011, 3:31 PM
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Yay! BTW, we are hoping to get down this weekend, providing the weather cooperates.
Josh
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dagibbs
May 9, 2011, 5:25 PM
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Got out Saturday and Sunday last weekend with a couple local friends who are both pretty enthusiastic about climbing.
Saturday we went up to a nice local piece of rock called Farm Rock (in the Gatineau park). Gear-led a nice 45m 5.4 climb as a single pitch (though, the rope-drag got a bit much by the end). Was it a "trad" climb, or a "traditional climb"? I have know idea anymore. I would call it trad, but dunno about traditional. The rappel down from the anchors was just about 30m, and on rappel it looked like fun...so we top-roped that, too. Probably around a 5.6. Finally, led a 3rd route on a face where I'd broken my ankle about 2.5 years previously. It went at about 5.7 PG and about 27m.
Sunday we drove a bit further to Montagne d'Argent, where we top-roped a few routes on one cliff, then got in a couple of gear leads on another (one on-sight, one that I'd lead last year). Managed to chip a front tooth trying (and failing) to set a nut in a crack.
Had a couple sprinkles of rain the 2nd day, and a bunch of wet rock -- but it was still good to be out for a couple days of climbing.
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Gmburns2000
May 9, 2011, 6:14 PM
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Is the weather turning up there enough to have melted all the snow?
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dagibbs
May 9, 2011, 6:17 PM
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Well, there was no snow on anything I climbed -- but there would still be ice around places that had lots of ice formed and are shaded. And there's still a lot of seeping from the combination of spring melt and a lot of rain the last while.
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jakedatc
May 15, 2011, 5:24 PM
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:sneaks in:
went to gunks thurs and friday.
Didn't see Gail but did see John W and his dad at SLIME. Also some Canadian friends of ours that was a surprise.
Thurs tick list: Sleepwalk, Ants Line (TR), Modern Times, Middle Earth, Billy Shears.. kinda. for the 2nd time i thought that was Arch.. jeff led P1 then i led some lichen choss fest up to the base of Wrist p2.
Fri: Sixish, Drunkards delight (woo!), Bloody bush, Wrist, Nice Crack Climb.
Wanted to Drunkards for a while.. brought my small crashpad for ankle preservation. the whole first rail was greasy as hell until i took a trip up and chalked things up.. after that my real attempt went great. still scary up there until you can finally plug a cam and get your feet set on something substantial. I agree with Jeffs thoughts for the day.. that anchor could use a nice set of bolts. that tree is scary and the rocks under it seem to be cracking up. I don't expect it to happen but I probably wouldn't do the route again until it did.
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gblauer
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May 16, 2011, 3:05 AM
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Sounds like you had a lot of fun. Drunkards is on my list as well. That first set of moves scares the heck out of me. BTW, most people run the climb in a single pitch. No need to make an anchor below the roof.
I arrived Friday night late, got out early on Saturday. It threatened rain all day, only drizzled a bit. Mitch did five pitches with me, but, had to bow out because of his wrist. This was his first day outdoor climbing and he found it to be rather uncomfortable. I finished up the day with John W. We did Lower Eave, to the left of Horseman. It has a very fun exposed move to a horizontal and a big move up to jugs, followed by thin face climbing and a traverse to the mid anchors on Horseman. In a addition to a lot of other climbs we did all three pitches of The Blackout. This was the second time I did The Blackout and I really enjoyed it. Combine P1/P2 and belay at the Matinee tree. P3 has some unprotecting committing moves up to big jugs and a shiny bolt. Pull the roof and it's easy climbing to the top.
Sunday was a washout. Woke up at 7AM, it was raining, went back to bed until 11. What a treat! Spent the next couple of hours at the Gardiner Cupcake Festival. There were several vendors, 1000's of amazing cupcakes and large throngs of people eating cupcakes in the rain. Made a dreary day yummy-licious. Now I have to workout tomorrow to make up for today's caloric overload.
It's supposed to rain at the gunks all week. It might make for a very soggy weekend. I wanted to get on Ken's on Saturday, it was the first time this season that it was dry (no water fall). I supposed it will be a torrent by next Saturday.
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jakedatc
May 16, 2011, 3:35 AM
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gblauer wrote: Sounds like you had a lot of fun. Drunkards is on my list as well. That first set of moves scares the heck out of me. BTW, most people run the climb in a single pitch. No need to make an anchor below the roof. I arrived Friday night late, got out early on Saturday. It threatened rain all day, only drizzled a bit. Mitch did five pitches with me, but, had to bow out because of his wrist. This was his first day outdoor climbing and he found it to be rather uncomfortable. I finished up the day with John W. We did Lower Eave, to the left of Horseman. It has a very fun exposed move to a horizontal and a big move up to jugs, followed by thin face climbing and a traverse to the mid anchors on Horseman. In a addition to a lot of other climbs we did all three pitches of The Blackout. This was the second time I did The Blackout and I really enjoyed it. Combine P1/P2 and belay at the Matinee tree. P3 has some unprotecting committing moves up to big jugs and a shiny bolt. Pull the roof and it's easy climbing to the top. Sunday was a washout. Woke up at 7AM, it was raining, went back to bed until 11. What a treat! Spent the next couple of hours at the Gardiner Cupcake Festival. There were several vendors, 1000's of amazing cupcakes and large throngs of people eating cupcakes in the rain. Made a dreary day yummy-licious. Now I have to workout tomorrow to make up for today's caloric overload. It's supposed to rain at the gunks all week. It might make for a very soggy weekend. I wanted to get on Ken's on Saturday, it was the first time this season that it was dry (no water fall). I supposed it will be a torrent by next Saturday.
Yea, i should have read the Mproj description before going. After i chalked up the rail i felt pretty good but it still felt a lot better once i got a cam in haha. Do what i was going to do and bring a pad and combine it with Son of Easy O and do both scary boulder starts with a soft landing :)
lower eave sounds fun.. i like low cruxes and easier tops :)
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blueeyedclimber
May 16, 2011, 1:05 PM
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Boulder Pad? I wish I was there to make fun of you! Haha! Just kidding.
We also were at the Gunks this weekend. Tiff hasn't been climbing very much, so I did all the leading. On Saturday, we did Tequila Monkingbird, P1 of Birdie Party, Higher Stannard, Try Again, and Star Action.
I had previously had a hard time with the crux of Try Again, even though I had onsighted the harder climbs all around it. Saturday it went easily.
Sunday, we joined Gail and Mitch at the Cupcake Festival. I was the only one who didn't have a cupcake. I had pizza and ice cream. I felt I could only eat a cupcake if I had a big glass of milk. I wasn't feeling it.
Josh
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mojomonkey
May 16, 2011, 4:33 PM
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gblauer wrote: Sounds like you had a lot of fun. Drunkards is on my list as well. That first set of moves scares the heck out of me. BTW, most people run the climb in a single pitch. No need to make an anchor below the roof.
I've done it as a single pitch, though I'm not sure if that is a lot better. From what I remember it was hard to communicate with my second that way and I couldn't see them. Given the hard start and the amount of rope you have out, that could be a problem for a second if the climb is hard for them. They'd end up back on the ground if they fell, with the speed they returned to the ground dependent on how tightly you belayed. But cranking the ropes down really tight will keep them from being able to really climb the delicate start though.
gblauer wrote: Spent the next couple of hours at the Gardiner Cupcake Festival. There were several vendors, 1000's of amazing cupcakes and large throngs of people eating cupcakes in the rain. Made a dreary day yummy-licious. Now I have to workout tomorrow to make up for today's caloric overload.
Had I know of the festival, I might have made it up too!
gblauer wrote: It's supposed to rain at the gunks all week. It might make for a very soggy weekend. I wanted to get on Ken's on Saturday, it was the first time this season that it was dry (no water fall). I supposed it will be a torrent by next Saturday.
I actually led Ken's Crack for the first time earlier this year a month or two back and it was dry. It was one of the first climbs I practiced on when learning to place gear and I had avoided it since because it's usually busy, and I remembered it as strenuous. I still thought it was awkward through the crux, but there is surely an easier method I missed (or, likely, my technique just bites).
Glad to hear Mitch is climbing :)
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dagibbs
May 16, 2011, 5:20 PM
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Got out to Montagne d'Argent again on Sunday. It had been raining all day Saturday and part of the night -- so lots of wet rock, but no actual rain while I was there. Took another lead fall on gear -- which are still rare enough for me that it means something. (An orange [#3] Metolius TCU.) Each gear fall leaves me feeling more comfortable that gear will, actually, catch my next fall.
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darkgift06
May 16, 2011, 5:39 PM
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went out to Skaha on Friday & Sat.
Friday we started on Plumb Line, Sagging Bum Line, & Stoutharted then hauled up our bags up to the top & walked over to the Turret where we built a huge inukshuk with some friends. We then climbed a few routs up on the Turret drank some beers & called it a day..
Sat, was supposed to be raining so we met at the local farmers market in the morning having coffee & such, then met at the parking lot around 2:30 just as the rain was stopping. While hiking in & out we saw people up checking out our inukshuk from the day before... its huge 5'7" tall & visible from the parking lot. We climbed at Red Tail South with some friends who are new climbers, we climbed Death by Sex, Tradition, Dogmatism, & Black Widow.
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Gmburns2000
May 16, 2011, 9:26 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Boulder Pad? I wish I was there to make fun of you! Haha! Just kidding. We also were at the Gunks this weekend. Tiff hasn't been climbing very much, so I did all the leading. On Saturday, we did Tequila Monkingbird, P1 of Birdie Party, Higher Stannard, Try Again, and Star Action. I had previously had a hard time with the crux of Try Again, even though I had onsighted the harder climbs all around it. Saturday it went easily. Sunday, we joined Gail and Mitch at the Cupcake Festival. I was the only one who didn't have a cupcake. I had pizza and ice cream. I felt I could only eat a cupcake if I had a big glass of milk. I wasn't feeling it. Josh
That's OK. We all have bad head days. Way to get out there, though. At least you got some good junk food eating done. Next time you'll send for sure.
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losbill
May 17, 2011, 12:01 AM
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Dang it! Josh! Just cuz you weren't "feeling it" is no freaking excuse. You have to man up and get the cupcake thing done!!!
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losbill
May 17, 2011, 12:07 AM
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Damn Chad! Love the names of your climbs! Sagging Bum Line, Death by Sex, and Stoutharted since it made me think of Stout. No idea what the hell the harted is though. Had to google to find out what a inukshuk was though. No pics?!?!!?! No video of the building process?!?!?!?!
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losbill
May 17, 2011, 12:44 AM
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Gail, good for Mitch! Sounds like quite a workout for his first day out.
Greg, the thumb stacks are for Barn Door at the CNTBN. Too big for fingers for me and too small for hands.
DA -- Gud'on ya! Climbing in the rain, taking lead falls and all on Silver Mountain or is it Money Mountain!
Jake -- I was pretty damn hesitant on my first lead of Drunkards. Took forever to figure out the gear. No way I was going to risk screwing up my right foot again with a groundfall. Regarding the anchor at the end of P1, I don't remember much of an issue if you were headed up. Seem as if you can jam some gear in the crack overhead. Rapping from there might be an issue though. The little overhang is fun and I have always gone to top. I have never linked it up though. I would be concerned being out of view of the second at the crux with too much rope and thus slack out. BTW what is it with you and noise breaking out during the night at Camp Slime!!?!?!?! Get thee to the MUA! Or cultivate some very quiet, isolated throw-down spots!
Lest you all think I just post up here and don't climb, Cold Weather Kevin and I got out to CNTBN on Saturday and challenged ourselves pretty good, full grade or better than our usual level, on some clip ups and top ropes. High point for me was getting a crux on a climb a more than a full letter grade than my sport onsight 10a level, with some hangs, and coaching and encouragement from a local celeb, utilizing a toe-heel cam, a first for me. Still feeling pretty beat up particularly in the forearms and shoulders.
Mosquitoes were brutal all day, topped off by black flies late. Got a pretty full day in, giving up shortly after 6 when it started raining heavily. Would have preferred to be in the Gunks with Gail but too long of a drive for one day of climbing.
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dagibbs
May 17, 2011, 12:50 AM
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[quote "losbill"}
DA -- Gud'on ya! Climbing in the rain, taking lead falls and all on Silver Mountain or is it Money Mountain!
I think, in context, it is Silver Mountain.
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Gmburns2000
May 17, 2011, 12:51 AM
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Stop complaining. You did fine on Drunkards.
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jakedatc
May 17, 2011, 1:00 AM
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losbill wrote: Gail, good for Mitch! Sounds like quite a workout for his first day out. Greg, the thumb stacks are for Barn Door at the CNTBN. Too big for fingers for me and too small for hands. DA -- Gud'on ya! Climbing in the rain, taking lead falls and all on Silver Mountain or is it Money Mountain! Jake -- I was pretty damn hesitant on my first lead of Drunkards. Took forever to figure out the gear. No way I was going to risk screwing up my right foot again with a groundfall. Regarding the anchor at the end of P1, I don't remember much of an issue if you were headed up. Seem as if you can jam some gear in the crack overhead. Rapping from there might be an issue though. The little overhang is fun and I have always gone to top. I have never linked it up though. I would be concerned being out of view of the second at the crux with too much rope and thus slack out. BTW what is it with you and noise breaking out during the night at Camp Slime!!?!?!?! Get thee to the MUA! Or cultivate some very quiet, isolated throw-down spots! Lest you all think I just post up here and don't climb, Cold Weather Kevin and I got out to CNTBN on Saturday and challenged ourselves pretty good, full grade or better than our usual level, on some clip ups and top ropes. High point for me was getting a crux on a climb a more than a full letter grade than my sport onsight 10a level, with some hangs, and coaching and encouragement from a local celeb, utilizing a toe-heel cam, a first for me. Still feeling pretty beat up particularly in the forearms and shoulders. Mosquitoes were brutal all day, topped off by black flies late. Got a pretty full day in, giving up shortly after 6 when it started raining heavily. Would have preferred to be in the Gunks with Gail but too long of a drive for one day of climbing.
Didn't take me forever.. got to the square openging/undercling thing set my feet and shoved the first cam placement i could and took a nice deep breath haha. I've since learned to do P2 of all of those routes in there. i had never heard anything about P2 so i figured it wasn't worth doing.. now i know.
I have only had issues 2 nights the last 2 seasons.. this time was less annoying than the ambulances last season. (ranger rob still owes us the story!!) I do not think MUA would be better.. i prefer to not drive back and forth every day to climb.
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darkgift06
May 17, 2011, 5:22 PM
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losbill wrote: Damn Chad! Love the names of your climbs! Sagging Bum Line, Death by Sex, and Stoutharted since it made me think of Stout. No idea what the hell the harted is though. Had to google to find out what a inukshuk was though. No pics?!?!!?! No video of the building process?!?!?!?!
We have some Classic names that come from the 80's here at Skaha....
I was waiting to see if anyone else would post pics of it online.. but I suppose I'll have to do it. Build & finished photos to come.
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blueeyedclimber
May 18, 2011, 2:47 PM
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losbill wrote: Dang it! Josh! Just cuz you weren't "feeling it" is no freaking excuse. You have to man up and get the cupcake thing done!!!
Hey! The pizza was pretty dang good. It was baked potato pizza. I'll take that over a stupid cupcake any day!
Josh
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Gmburns2000
May 18, 2011, 8:54 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: losbill wrote: Dang it! Josh! Just cuz you weren't "feeling it" is no freaking excuse. You have to man up and get the cupcake thing done!!! Hey! The pizza was pretty dang good. It was baked potato pizza. I'll take that over a stupid cupcake any day! Josh
sounds like you hang-dogged it. sorry, no trad for you.
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blueeyedclimber
May 19, 2011, 12:14 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: losbill wrote: Dang it! Josh! Just cuz you weren't "feeling it" is no freaking excuse. You have to man up and get the cupcake thing done!!! Hey! The pizza was pretty dang good. It was baked potato pizza. I'll take that over a stupid cupcake any day! Josh sounds like you hang-dogged it. sorry, no trad for you.
Whoa, wait a second! Cupcakes are all fluff, no substance. Empty calories. Sounds like sport climbing to me. If anything is traditional, it's pizza!
Josh
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Gmburns2000
May 19, 2011, 1:55 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: blueeyedclimber wrote: losbill wrote: Dang it! Josh! Just cuz you weren't "feeling it" is no freaking excuse. You have to man up and get the cupcake thing done!!! Hey! The pizza was pretty dang good. It was baked potato pizza. I'll take that over a stupid cupcake any day! Josh sounds like you hang-dogged it. sorry, no trad for you. Whoa, wait a second! Cupcakes are all fluff, no substance. Empty calories. Sounds like sport climbing to me. If anything is traditional, it's pizza! Josh
nah, with pizza, you always know what's on top, in the middle, and the bottom. Cupcakes sometimes have surprises in the middle.
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