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Gmburns2000
Jun 28, 2009, 11:56 AM
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clmbr wrote: No weekend warrior this time.the rain is crushing my 5.10d aspirations. Unless mac Donald's has a grading system.
yup, I'm hearing that. rain all week here. boo hiss.
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gblauer
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Jun 29, 2009, 1:07 AM
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Not the weekend, but, I spent Weds-half of saturday at the Red.
We enjoyed amazing climbing at the Military Wall (highlights: Tissue Tiger and Fuzzy Undercling), The Zoo (highlights: One Brick Shy and Monkey in the Middle) and Roadside (highlight: Ro Shampo).
We had dinner at Miguels, great accomodations/breakfasts at True North Inn (hostel) and the awesome hospitality of the local climbing community.
I can't wait to get back, I have to finish Ro Shampo!
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Gmburns2000
Jun 29, 2009, 1:22 PM
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I gotta get there someday.
I also have to get out somehow. Rain, injuries, blah!
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gblauer
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Jun 29, 2009, 1:35 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: I gotta get there someday. I also have to get out somehow. Rain, injuries, blah!
It's amazing. But, you have to really love long overhanging, sustained routes! Train hard before you go, otherwise you will be doing a lot of "taking".
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gblauer
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Jul 12, 2009, 2:06 PM
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Shockley's in the Vulgarian "style"?
NOT...we did do Shockley's for the first time, alas, we were fully clothed.
Very nice climb up to the roof. A couple of interesting moves to get you into position to pull the roof. Then up and over. I was very intimidated because I had read that this roof was very height dependent. At 5'3" (almost) I figured I would have too much trouble and happily passed the lead to my 6 foot husband, Mitchal. In reality, I had no issue pulling the roof. Was it scary? Yes, but, it was completely doable. Next time, I will lead it.
In the Vulgarian "style"? Maybe...
(This post was edited by gblauer on Jul 12, 2009, 9:48 PM)
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Gmburns2000
Jul 17, 2009, 2:01 PM
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gblauer wrote: Shockley's in the Vulgarian "style"? NOT...we did do Shockley's for the first time, alas, we were fully clothed. Very nice climb up to the roof. A couple of interesting moves to get you into position to pull the roof. Then up and over. I was very intimidated because I had read that this roof was very height dependent. At 5'3" (almost) I figured I would have too much trouble and happily passed the lead to my 6 foot husband, Mitchal. In reality, I had no issue pulling the roof. Was it scary? Yes, but, it was completely doable. Next time, I will lead it. In the Vulgarian "style"? Maybe...
heh - now that's a weekend warrior report worth sticking around for!
Yeah, Shockley's is totally doable. I guess it can be height dependent, there are lower ledges that shorter people can leverage to get their feet up.
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Gmburns2000
Jul 17, 2009, 2:02 PM
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A Passionless Weekend
It's been a loooooong time since I've had my last post up. Too much rain, too much life, blah, blah, blah.
This weekend was a very weird one. Somehow, I just couldn't get it together, even though I was able to put it together rather well. As I said, it was weird.
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gblauer
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Jul 20, 2009, 2:10 AM
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The weekend report
Climbed for 5 hours on Friday at the gunks, then the heavens opened (yes, we ignored the little spits of rain, the wind, the darkening clouds) and we got soaked. It's too bad, because Jen was about to do a mock lead in preparation for trying to do her first gunks lead.
We started off on Saturday on Credibility Gap and Asphodel. (As a party of 4, we were looking for two climbs in the same general vacinity.) Credibility Gap is one heck of a warm up! It goes up a slick slab (as a second I was totally happy, Mitch wasn't feeling it and it was a scary run up the 5.5 section of this climb), up a ramp and then up an exposed low angle corner. Then you run into a huge ceiling and the only way out is traversing left. It looks completely ridiculous from the ground, but, the holds reveal themselves as you make your way up to the ceiling. The move from under the ceiling to the face is totally fine, but, when you don't know where you are going it's kind of scary. The holds are huge and you get a good left foot almost immediately. Then it's over and you are at an exposed stance. Second pitch was easy, happy fun climbing.
While Credibility Gap was great, my highlight of the weekend was walking up to a climb, looking at it and deciding that I could do it. Turns out, I selected Columbia, an easy 8 that at one time was rated a 9- in Dick's black guide. It certainly was not 9ish, I thought it was pretty easy and I was proud of myself for jumping on something that I really didn't know anything about.
Maybe I will work up the courage to lead Ant's Line! (I can float it on TR, but, not sure how I feel about placing the gear along the way.) Damn, I wish I started climbing when I was a youngster.
(This post was edited by gblauer on Jul 20, 2009, 2:13 AM)
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Gmburns2000
Jul 20, 2009, 1:47 PM
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I love Credibility Gap. My partner was going to get on that this weekend as one of his goals, but it was too hot on Sunday. We got baked on Hans Puss.
And oy! the heavens did open up on Friday. We weren't climbing in the rain, but we drove through it on the way to New Paltz, managed to catch a break while setting up the tent, and then felt the floor of our tent feel like a waterbed overnight into Saturday morning. It's amazing the rock was as dry as it was Sat morning.
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RolonRolon
Jul 21, 2009, 6:50 PM
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Wrote this a bit ago and dont' think I ever posted it. Nothing exciting but a very fun climb..
Friday, June 26th 2009
Today, Gabe and I went to Eldo canyon. Gabe showed up at my house at about 8:30 and we cruised on over to Eldo. I had to get gas and pulled into a sketchy corner gas-station. It started filling up but stopped after only about 2 secons so I hoped back into the I car and off we went to Eldo with almost a gallon of gas in the car. We argued over what climb to do. We thought the Bastille crack was empty but surprise surprise... somebody had come early and covered the whole wall with top ropes. So we continued around the corner to the West Buttress, a 4 pitch line that ascends just 50' to the west of the Bastille crack and is just as solid climbing but for some reason not nearly as climbed.
Gabe had accepted my gracious offer of a cup of coffee earlier but was fancifully regretting it now as he said his stomach was churning and there aren't bathrooms halfway up the wall (he is obviously far too lazy to walk ALL the way back to the bathrooms in the parking lot).
I fired him up with a pep talk and off he went up the short 10' traverse into the first crux of the climb that doesn't easily protect. Gabe wasn't deterred and shot up the thin moves until he found some “God-saving jugs.” It was a quick scramble up to the first belay ledge (or what we thought was the first). I seconded and didn't have much trouble cleaning the route nor climbing. Gabe was anchored to a manky looking piton and 2 other cams but said he might need them- would I mind just anchoring to the piton? Errr...I guess. Luckily, I carried a .5 camolot that went in bomber and I was satisfied. But low and behold, it didn't matter! Gabe climbed just around a small arete, spoke to a gentleman on a neighboring route and learned that there was a bolted belay ledge just 20' to our left. Gabe scrambled over and set up another anchor. I broke down what we had of an anchor and decided to skip the easy arete that Gabe had climbed and take a pretty tight chimney directly to the ledge.
I haven't climbed many chimney's in my day but this one was a bundle of fun. The opening moves force you up pretty tight into the chimney until you realize you are pretty much going to have to aim directly for the top. But perfect edges appear at eye level and its an easy but very fun upward traverse to the belay ledge.
As I anchored in and looked up Gabe explained our 3 options- the left most one a fairly easy chimney; the middle a smallish looking finger crack and the right most an easish looking flake. Gabe decided to take the left most route and headed up to the chimney- not putting any pro in the 30 feet of climbing, of course. He got up there and clipped an old piton and backed it up with a bomber cam. Stepping out and over the chimney makes it pretty easy and Gabe didn't have any problems with this approach. As I belayed him he literally didn't stop pulling rope for 30 or so meters. Finally, after what I learned was a 30m runout , Gabe reached the summit and set up a belay anchor. I climbed up to the chimney and got set up. I decided to try and not step out but instead go straight up and through the chimney. I got in a really stupid stance to remove both the quickdraw on the piton and the cam and pumped myself. I then went for some funky body/arm jams and was unsuccessful going directly up.. Instead, I made the step out and went over the chimney. The runout turned out to the be warranted as the rest of the climb was pretty easy climbing with huge jugs everywhere. I reached the summit and didn't realize it for a second because I thought we were doing 4 pitches but then looked around and realized I was at the top! A quick high five and then I sat down to take in the views. I could see other climbers on Calypso on the opposite side of the canyon and hikers as small as ants looking up at us crazy rock climbers. We coiled up our rope and started to look for the decent.. It turned out to be pretty sketchy and exposed but after the exhilarating climb I didn't even notice.. Climbing down we saw hard overhanging roof climbs and dreamed of future days...
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Gmburns2000
Jul 21, 2009, 7:39 PM
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^^ I remember feeling a bit foolish for roping up on the descent, particularly when a free soloist came up behind me and confirmed that I was heading the proper direction.
And I like the view from the top of the Bastille, too.
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Gmburns2000
Jul 24, 2009, 8:14 PM
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Heh, well, some days you dream, others you watch your dreams get crushed, and others still leave a lingering sense of doubt and hope all at the same time.
The Silver Lining is now up for reading.
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boymeetsrock
Jul 24, 2009, 9:04 PM
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Nice Greg! I enjoyed it much.
I had the same trouble as Jello on the second pitch of Baby. That roof is a bit cryptic.
And I had the same trouble as you on Bonnie's. I still haven't lead the first pitch actually. That roof is NO give away. Good on you for finishing the climb.
I didn't read the rest yet. But I'll come back to it.
Thanks for sharing. oh, and nice pics too btw!
-Boy
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cracklover
Jul 24, 2009, 9:26 PM
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RolonRolon wrote: Wrote this a bit ago and dont' think I ever posted it. Nothing exciting but a very fun climb.. Friday, June 26th 2009 Today, Gabe and I went to Eldo canyon.
^^^ Is different Gabe.
Just to clarify, since there aren't many Gabes that I know...
GO
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donald949
Jul 24, 2009, 10:21 PM
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cracklover wrote: RolonRolon wrote: Wrote this a bit ago and dont' think I ever posted it. Nothing exciting but a very fun climb.. Friday, June 26th 2009 Today, Gabe and I went to Eldo canyon. ^^^ Is different Gabe. Just to clarify, since there aren't many Gabes that I know... GO
Oh sure, we all know, it was Gabe Walker....
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Gmburns2000
Jul 24, 2009, 11:59 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote: Nice Greg! I enjoyed it much. I had the same trouble as Jello on the second pitch of Baby. That roof is a bit cryptic. And I had the same trouble as you on Bonnie's. I still haven't lead the first pitch actually. That roof is NO give away. Good on you for finishing the climb. I didn't read the rest yet. But I'll come back to it. Thanks for sharing. oh, and nice pics too btw! -Boy
Thanks man, but I still think it wouldn't be 5.9 if that awkward corner didn't precede the roof. The awkward corner is actually the kick in the nuts before the roof gets to you, because you expect the roof to be the crux and it isn't really. At least it's not different than a lot of roofs there.
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Gmburns2000
Jul 24, 2009, 11:59 PM
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cracklover wrote: RolonRolon wrote: Wrote this a bit ago and dont' think I ever posted it. Nothing exciting but a very fun climb.. Friday, June 26th 2009 Today, Gabe and I went to Eldo canyon. ^^^ Is different Gabe. Just to clarify, since there aren't many Gabes that I know... GO
good thing that you did, because i totally thought it was you. seriously, i did.
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gblauer
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Aug 1, 2009, 10:55 PM
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Weekend isn't over yet, but, I thought I would post our Saturday adventures. We are climbing tomorrow, so more to follow.
I marked my 52nd birthday this weekend by skydiving with my husband and kids.
What a KICK! It's an awesome feeling to jump out of an airplane at 14,500 feet. It was colder than I thought it would be, it did not feel like falling and I was way calmer than I expected. Once the chute is delpoyed you have a very gentle sensation of floating to earth.
My kids really loved it, it was so special to do it with them. Made my jump that much sweeter.
So much fun. I highly recommend it.
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Gmburns2000
Aug 2, 2009, 9:04 PM
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gblauer wrote: Weekend isn't over yet, but, I thought I would post our Saturday adventures. We are climbing tomorrow, so more to follow. I marked my 52nd birthday this weekend by skydiving with my husband and kids. What a KICK! It's an awesome feeling to jump out of an airplane at 14,500 feet. It was colder than I thought it would be, it did not feel like falling and I was way calmer than I expected. Once the chute is delpoyed you have a very gentle sensation of floating to earth. My kids really loved it, it was so special to do it with them. Made my jump that much sweeter. So much fun. I highly recommend it.
That's awesome! congrats on that. now you have to be like Bush I and jump every year into your 80s.
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boymeetsrock
Aug 3, 2009, 1:34 PM
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Awesome Gail!!! Congrats on another spin around the sun. What a great way to celebrate!
I've been getting my weekend warior on so if people don't mind...
I took my dad (68 yrs old) climibing for the first time this weekend. We went to Den Rock in MA, which happens to be where I climbed outside and rappelled for the first time!
I haven't been there in forever. It was a neat little trip down memory lane. I was also really happy to be sharing not only climbing, but the first place I ever climbed, with my Dad.
And he did great in his new balance sneeks!! We tried out the nice little 5.4 on the "mail wall". The cold shuts at the top of the ledge made for very easy set up. The weather just held out for us. And Dad didn't bat an eye the whole time.
It was a really simple but GREAT day for me sharing this part of my life with my Dad. I look forward for taking him on a real adventure in the future!!!
-Wyeth
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Gmburns2000
Aug 3, 2009, 1:43 PM
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boymeetsrock wrote: Awesome Gail!!! Congrats on another spin around the sun. What a great way to celebrate! I've been getting my weekend warior on so if people don't mind... I took my dad (68 yrs old) climibing for the first time this weekend. We went to Den Rock in MA, which happens to be where I climbed outside and rappelled for the first time! I haven't been there in forever. It was a neat little trip down memory lane. I was also really happy to be sharing not only climbing, but the first place I ever climbed, with my Dad. And he did great in his new balance sneeks!! We tried out the nice little 5.4 on the "mail wall". The cold shuts at the top of the ledge made for very easy set up. The weather just held out for us. And Dad didn't bat an eye the whole time. It was a really simple but GREAT day for me sharing this part of my life with my Dad. I look forward for taking him on a real adventure in the future!!! -Wyeth
That's awesome. My dad has been making subtle suggestions that he'd like to try climbing someday. He's petrified of heights, so we'll see, but it's something I've always wanted to do with him.
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boymeetsrock
Aug 3, 2009, 1:51 PM
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I think it is a rewarding experience for sure! Its a funny role reversal too, (teaching your Dad anything). I'd encourage you to give it a try. I'm sure he would appreciate the experience even if "climbing" didn't REALLY happen. 
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gblauer
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Aug 3, 2009, 1:56 PM
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How old is your Dad?
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