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Dip
Mar 23, 2011, 1:53 PM
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yeah there certainly wasn't a lot of downtime. I have so much other stuff this year that i have to take off work to do, only about half of it climbing related, that i had to squeeze as much out of a long weekend as i could. We definitely got our money's worth.
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 23, 2011, 2:59 PM
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Nice job! I am definitely regretting not taking the "longer" approach now, but now I know everything except the topout descent. I am already thinking about my next trip there.
In less than a year, I have had experiences on two of my top 5 North American climbs that have left unfinished business.
Josh
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Dip
Mar 23, 2011, 3:23 PM
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The Grand Wall being the other?
I know for sure if/when i get back to L29, knowing what i know now it won't be a problem. The frustrating part about that is figuring out when that'll be. I do want it. Bad. But there's also a lot of other stuff i wanna do, with probably one trip out west per year to do it all. At least for the immediate future.
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blueeyedclimber
Mar 23, 2011, 3:46 PM
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Dip wrote: The Grand Wall being the other?
Yeah. We are going back, not this summer but next summer. I think we are going to Tuolumne this summer.
In reply to: I know for sure if/when i get back to L29, knowing what i know now it won't be a problem. The frustrating part about that is figuring out when that'll be. I do want it. Bad. But there's also a lot of other stuff i wanna do, with probably one trip out west per year to do it all. At least for the immediate future.
Too much to do, too little time. 
Josh
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gblauer
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Mar 28, 2011, 4:59 AM
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I have been climbing in Isolation Canyon and Sedona for the last 5 days. As soon as the photos are approved, I will posting a trip for our climb up a Sedona spire: Crimson Crescent.
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losbill
Mar 30, 2011, 12:29 AM
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Dip --- great TR!!! First day on my first and thus far only trip to RR, get out of the car at a little past 10 AM to scope the approach. Hey! No problem! That's not so far away and its only 6 pitches at 5.7 something. Great introduction to RR. We will be back in town in time for cocktail hour! I think it was 4:30 AM the next day before we got back to the car. Silly Northeast climbers. Thanks for posting. --- Bill
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gblauer
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Apr 11, 2011, 12:07 PM
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Gunks Report
Saturday was absolutely gorgeous and the climbing was stellar. although I was only able to get in a few pitches (I had some afternoon obligations), I felt unusally calm and happy on the sharp end. So good in fact, that I decided to lead the first pitch of Alpine Diversions. It has a very hard start for a shorty. My partner could easily reach the starting jug, it took me two moves before I could get there. I was happy that I figured out how to get there and that the rest of the climb went down easy.
Sunday was cloudy, cool (downright cold) and really breezy at the top of the cliff. I climbed in a party of three (can you say the "weakest link"?) in the Nears. It was pretty darn crowded, despite the not so great weather. We started on Grand Central (in a single pitch, makes for some interesting climbing for the second when there is no gear until the traverse) and then hit Elder Cleavage (another very hard start for a shorty), Birdcage and Birdland. Elder Cleavage has a tough start, another tough section up a steep face (P1) and then it backs way off until you get to P3. P3 has a really fun roof with cool moves. Although it's tough to get to the cool moves, very burly. Regrettably, I felt like I climbed rather poorly on Sunday, maybe too hard too soon in the season?
All in all, a nice weekend, would prefer some warmer weather! I will be climbing at our local quarry next weekend.
We have over 120 bolted lines, with many moderates.
(This post was edited by gblauer on Apr 11, 2011, 3:08 PM)
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 11, 2011, 12:20 PM
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Nice, Gail. We would have loved to get down there this weekend but we just couldn't swing it. We can go this weekend but we're unsure of the weather. If it looks like we can get 2 days in out of our 3 day weekend, then we will probably go.
On another note, I heard there was an Alex Honnold sighting on Saturday. He better not be soloing my projects! 
Josh
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gblauer
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Apr 11, 2011, 2:09 PM
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I saw them filming at High E. I had no idea who he was!
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losbill
Apr 13, 2011, 2:43 AM
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Wow Gail! Pretty stellar day in the Nears!!!! Who the heck were you climbing with? Can I get a tour with them?!?!?!
Since I am now officially a weekend warrior I can confidently post on this thread!
Spent a great day with some low key cragging at the crag not to be named last Saturday. Did the first trad lead of the season and enjoyed it immensely. Great start to what I know will be a great season. Since I was leading throughout the winter, albeit not as often as in past years, the question arose when does the "season" officially start? We decided the first lead with a temperature over 60 as it was on Saturday.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 13, 2011, 3:06 AM
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I bet with it being over 60 that first wall at the crag that sucks would have been nice. was there a lot of snow on the ground?
I'll be getting out sat for the first time since breaking my toe. it will also be my final climbing day in Chile until possibly next year. I'm hoping to have a couple of reports from Brasil starting in a couple of weeks, but we'll see.
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gblauer
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Apr 23, 2011, 4:10 AM
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Will it ever be warm again?
We climbed today at the gunks. I am not sure that it even broke 50 degrees. Yet the west trapps lot was full at 10 AM! It was cloudy, a bit breezy and downright cold.
We warmed up on Easy O, then did Son of Easy O, Bloody Bush, Uncle Rudy (fun P3) and finished up on Morning After. We were about to run up Sundown when I realized I had a 5PM conference call. Thus ended my Good Friday climbing. It's supposed to rain cats and dogs tomorrow, so it looks like Sunday will be the next day that I climb.
My friend Bett did 4 pitches with us today (she shattered her hip in 5 places at the end of November), she is doing really well. She doesn't trust her right leg, makes some moves pretty tough. That said, she is just grateful to be out climbing.
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losbill
Apr 23, 2011, 10:44 AM
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Snow's long gone Greg. We have had enough really warm days and periods of rain to do it in. However I will be headed for Tucks to ski in a couple of weekends and there will still be plenty of snow up there. What's up with Brasil? I assume you are headed up here eventually. I see you have signed on for a Acadia outing in July.
Gail last Saturday morning it was 31 degrees as I led up a somewhat wet Intertwine at Crow Hill. It is 5.8 crack climb. My fingers were pretty numb by the time I got the first three pieces in. Had to jam the finish on faith since my fingers by that time had lost all feeling in them. You have to love climbing in New England. Despite the cold we enjoyed being out on a beautiful sunny morning, the view from the top of Crow is really nice; as I'm sure you did yesterday.
Was planning to get out early for some bouldering before the rain started today. It was dry when I got up at 5:30 AM then right about 6, as I was contemplating heading out, a pretty good shower passed through. No climbing today.
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gblauer
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Apr 23, 2011, 12:58 PM
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Bill, Let me know when you are gunking ok? It's raining here, not as hard as I expected. I suppose Mitch and I will hike to Bonticou in the rain or do the carriage road. We need to get out and do something.
The indoor rock gym is under new management, maybe I will fool around in the gym.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 24, 2011, 12:18 PM
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Bill - yeah, I'll be with you guys in BH over that weekend at the end of June / beginning of July. I'm hoping to climb before that, but I don't think I will.
I'm in Brasil chasing wimmin' (well, actually one in particular). There is apparently plenty of climbing in the area, though I haven't done any research other than to connect with a friend of a friend who happens to be a long-time climber in the area.
Gail - great news regarding Bette. Glad that she's getting back out there.
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gblauer
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Apr 24, 2011, 8:46 PM
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Greg...What happens when you catch her?
Will it ever stop raining?
It rained all day at the Gunks on Saturday. Mitch and I had every intention of hiking in the rain, somehow the constant pelting dampened our enthusiasm. We ended up driving up to Rhinebeck and did some urban hiking, shopping and eating. We then stopped at the Vanderbilt mansion in Hyde Park and did (part) of the tour. It rained most of the day, but by the time we go out of the movie theater at 9, the rain was stopped. We made a fire out back and enjoyed the relatively warm evening.
Sunday dawned sunny, but it quickly clouded up. By the time we got to the cliff, it was completely clouded over and starting to spit. Everything was soaked from the night before, water was running down many of the faces in the Uberfall. I decided to lead Easy O (really easy climbing) just to see how wet every thing was. The chimney was a mud pit, so I stayed on the face and quickly climbed to the GT ledge. It was wet, but the climbing is easy. I set up a TR so that I could do Baby and Twisted Sister. By now, it was steadily drizzling. Since Mitch can't climb, he had belay duty. I didn't dally, I quickly ran laps up Baby (x2), the offwidth was soaked and then ran up Twisted Sister. I could not find the "g" rated route, then it occurred to me that I was climbing the wrong right facing corner. Duh...I ran the climb again, this time in the right, right facing corner. It still didn't feel exactly "g" rated to me.
The rain let up a bit so I lead Frog's Head, of course it started really raining just as I reached the crux. With uber care, I picked my way through the crux and found it easier than ever. Of course the rest of the climb is super easy rain or no rain. I ran up one more time after I decided to set up Sundown on a TR. The steady rain made Sundown that much harder. I don't think I wandered around the face enough because I found myself on thin holds, with a lot of smeary feet (not so good when the rock is wet).
We decided to call it a day, the rain was simply too much. Mitch was a trooper belaying me in the rain.
We need this weather to dry up!
(This post was edited by gblauer on Apr 25, 2011, 12:44 AM)
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Gmburns2000
Apr 24, 2011, 11:19 PM
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actually, I think I´ve already caught her, but what to do next is a mystery. no, that´s not true, just dont want to jinx myself yet.
i keep forgetting that I have a small WW TR, too. I made it out for my first climb since I broke my toe. It was also my last climb in Chile (at least at this point, who knows about a return). What was more important on this day: climbing all day and totally thrashing our bodies or climbing a little bit and heading down early for beer and one final mud-brick oven empanada? we went into Cajon de Maipo and made the steep, dry hike up to the sport crag of the day. after wandering below the hard climbs, we finally discovered the 4th class bolted scramble up to the ledge where the easy climbs were. henry roped up first and hung the draws. i pulled the rope and squeezed my now repaired toe into a pair of shoes that hadn´t been stretched from wear in a couple of months. the crux down low was a little tricky, but I managed it ok and felt fine after getting to the top.
The second route didn´t go so well. It either required a rather balancy and then dynamic sequence of moves at the second bolt or it went out left on technical but scary terrain. I chose to go left, but not before I hung after getting pumped due to a lack of a lead head. I made it to the top ok, but the route really messed with me.
Henry led the third route and had more trouble on it than the second route (the one I hung and he aced). I was nervous, but I pulled the rope anyway. Good thing. He read it wrong and, despite the fact that the real crux was the same for each of us, I found an easier way to gain the crux and was, thus, less tired. Success! Lead head back to normal. =)
Route #4, of which the crux was deciding which empanada place was the better one. We failed. They sold beer but could not serve it (i.e. - couldn´t drink it on the premises) and while the empanada and the bread were excellent, they didnt have pebre. boo hiss.
Still, all in all, not a bad day. I lost and regained my lead head in one day, got to breathe the amazingly fresh air in Cajon de Maipo, and hang out with a friend who I want to climb with again someday. We did get that beer, too. It´s just that it was two days later in Santiago.
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 25, 2011, 12:28 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: actually, I think I´ve already caught her, but what to do next is a mystery. no, that´s not true, just dont want to jinx myself yet.
I'm sure there are books that you can read. 
Josh
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Gmburns2000
Apr 25, 2011, 12:48 PM
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: actually, I think I´ve already caught her, but what to do next is a mystery. no, that´s not true, just dont want to jinx myself yet. I'm sure there are books that you can read. Josh 
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dagibbs
Apr 26, 2011, 2:02 AM
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gblauer wrote: Greg...What happens when you catch her? Will it ever stop raining? It rained all day at the Gunks on Saturday. ... Sunday dawned sunny, but it quickly clouded up. By the time we got to the cliff, it was completely clouded over and starting to spit. ... We decided to call it a day, the rain was simply too much. Mitch was a trooper belaying me in the rain.
Reading this, I'm really glad I decided to cancel my plans to spend the (Easter) weekend climbing at the 'Gunks.
I got a couple days of decent local (near Ottawa, Ontario) climbing in on Friday and Sunday instead.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 26, 2011, 11:57 AM
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dagibbs wrote: gblauer wrote: Greg...What happens when you catch her? Will it ever stop raining? It rained all day at the Gunks on Saturday. ... Sunday dawned sunny, but it quickly clouded up. By the time we got to the cliff, it was completely clouded over and starting to spit. ... We decided to call it a day, the rain was simply too much. Mitch was a trooper belaying me in the rain. Reading this, I'm really glad I decided to cancel my plans to spend the (Easter) weekend climbing at the 'Gunks. I got a couple days of decent local (near Ottawa, Ontario) climbing in on Friday and Sunday instead.
the more you read this thread the more you realize that Gail is kind of hardcore.
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dagibbs
Apr 26, 2011, 2:42 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: dagibbs wrote: gblauer wrote: Greg...What happens when you catch her? Will it ever stop raining? It rained all day at the Gunks on Saturday. ... Sunday dawned sunny, but it quickly clouded up. By the time we got to the cliff, it was completely clouded over and starting to spit. ... We decided to call it a day, the rain was simply too much. Mitch was a trooper belaying me in the rain. Reading this, I'm really glad I decided to cancel my plans to spend the (Easter) weekend climbing at the 'Gunks. I got a couple days of decent local (near Ottawa, Ontario) climbing in on Friday and Sunday instead. the more you read this thread the more you realize that Gail is kind of hardcore.
It isn't that I wouldn't climb in that sort of weather/conditions -- it just didn't seem worth 6 1/2 hours of driving (each way) for that kind of climbing.
I was pushing snow off a couple of the routes as I was leading them on Friday, in fact.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 26, 2011, 2:53 PM
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dagibbs wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: dagibbs wrote: gblauer wrote: Greg...What happens when you catch her? Will it ever stop raining? It rained all day at the Gunks on Saturday. ... Sunday dawned sunny, but it quickly clouded up. By the time we got to the cliff, it was completely clouded over and starting to spit. ... We decided to call it a day, the rain was simply too much. Mitch was a trooper belaying me in the rain. Reading this, I'm really glad I decided to cancel my plans to spend the (Easter) weekend climbing at the 'Gunks. I got a couple days of decent local (near Ottawa, Ontario) climbing in on Friday and Sunday instead. the more you read this thread the more you realize that Gail is kind of hardcore. It isn't that I wouldn't climb in that sort of weather/conditions -- it just didn't seem worth 6 1/2 hours of driving (each way) for that kind of climbing. I was pushing snow off a couple of the routes as I was leading them on Friday, in fact.
ah, but Gail routinely does this coming from Philly. (not to take away your accomplishments, just saying that she's constantly out in the rain in the 'Gunks after driving up from Philly)
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dagibbs
Apr 26, 2011, 3:08 PM
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Gmburns2000 wrote: dagibbs wrote: Gmburns2000 wrote: dagibbs wrote: gblauer wrote: Greg...What happens when you catch her? Will it ever stop raining? It rained all day at the Gunks on Saturday. ... Sunday dawned sunny, but it quickly clouded up. By the time we got to the cliff, it was completely clouded over and starting to spit. ... We decided to call it a day, the rain was simply too much. Mitch was a trooper belaying me in the rain. Reading this, I'm really glad I decided to cancel my plans to spend the (Easter) weekend climbing at the 'Gunks. I got a couple days of decent local (near Ottawa, Ontario) climbing in on Friday and Sunday instead. the more you read this thread the more you realize that Gail is kind of hardcore. It isn't that I wouldn't climb in that sort of weather/conditions -- it just didn't seem worth 6 1/2 hours of driving (each way) for that kind of climbing. I was pushing snow off a couple of the routes as I was leading them on Friday, in fact. ah, but Gail routinely does this coming from Philly. (not to take away your accomplishments, just saying that she's constantly out in the rain in the 'Gunks after driving up from Philly)
Yeah, pretty hard core.
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Dip
Apr 28, 2011, 3:07 PM
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Getting married in June. Figured a bachelor party would be a viable excuse to get to The Red for three days with five of my closest friends. First time there. Went a little something like this…
We left Harrisburg at around 5:30 Thursday evening, right after everyone got off work. It would’ve been nice to get out of town a little earlier but I had to play the hand I was dealt on this one. After a long car ride that wasn’t so bad until the last hour or two, we arrived at our cabin in Campton, KY at around 2:00a.m. At first I was a little bummed I’d miss out on the whole Miguel’s experience, but with the weather situation over the weekend, hell over the entire spring for that matter, I was very happy we had a roof over our heads. The hot tub after a long day climbing wasn’t bad either.
We woke Friday morning to the sound of rain on the cabin roof, so we weren’t in a huge hurry to get out the door, although we knew we’d be climbing soon enough. After breakfast we loaded the cars and drove to The Military Wall, first stopping at Miguel’s to pick up the latest version of the guidebook. It was dreary to say the least, and the general mood at the campground didn’t seem very cheerful.
At around 11:00 we arrived at The Military Wall and made the short hike up the hill. We got there just before it got too crowded, and were able to get a burn in on Moonbeam to warm up. Just as the moderates were being overrun by the hordes, we finished up and walked to the 5.12 wall, where I was immediately attracted to Fuzzy Undercling. I had a hell of a time with the start, but eventually found some beta that made it sort of easy and was able to send. The no hands rest after the business was sick! It was definitely a fun climb, but in my opinion a bit overhyped.
I had a few friends with me who weren’t too keen on leading anything difficult, and as I was getting nowhere on the Gung Ho/Tissue Tiger combo I offered to take them to Left Flank in search of less crowded moderates. We arrived to find there were indeed no crowds, but the 5.8’s were soaked. I was however able to talk them into doing a little top-roping on To Defy The Laws of Tradition, which almost unexplainably sat completely empty. The bottom footholds were soaked, but once established on the route everything dried up nicely. This was one of my favorite sport climbs I’ve ever done, regardless of the grade. Great movement on cool holds and a sweet position. Clip-ups don’t get much better.
As one of my friends was cleaning draws our solitude came to an end, as a big group of people popped around the corner, followed directly thereafter by the rest of my friends. We all sat and had a beer while the other group climbed TDTLOT, and one of my friends led Too Many Puppies. After a bit we parted ways, walking to the other end of the wall in hopes of getting on Wild Yet Tasty and Mercy The Huff.
Amazingly enough the entire Table of Colors wall was wet. Not soaked by any means, but greasy enough that holding on was a bit of an issue, so we walked back the trail toward the overhanging 5.11’s, which go figure, were also wet. At this point we just wanted to climb something, so we busted out a stick clip to protect the slippyness and messed around, although no one was able to send, too sketchy. At dusk we walked back to the car, day one complete.
Day two, Saturday started much the same as Friday, rain on the roof top. Once again we were in no hurry to get out so we took our time with breakfast and packing before driving down the hill to Roadside. I hate crowds, and will do almost anything to avoid them, so in hindsight that may not have been our best choice. I’d love to check out that crag on a dry Tuesday, but this time, on a rainy holiday weekend, there was way too much going on for me to be comfortable. From here stems my one regret from this trip, not getting on The Return of Chris Snyder. That freakin thing looks amazing, and when I return in October it will be done, even if I have to stand in a line that stretches all the way to Miguel’s.
Hoping to find solitude and wanting to plug some gear, two members of our group and I decided to descend back to the parking lot and head for The Long Wall. Autumn and Rock Wars were calling. Back to 55 we went, through that rad-sauce one lane tunnel. After a few laps driving back and forth on the gravel road past the bridge trying to decipher exactly which parking spot was the one we were looking for, we began the hike up the hill. By now the sun was peaking out from behind the clouds and it was humid as all hell.
15 minutes later we were at the cliff, where I racked up and led Autumn. Super cool climb with what I thought was a tough, thoughtful little crux, although I should qualify that statement by saying my jamming/layback/handcrack-in-general technique is not exactly up to par. Shortly after I reached the ground, as the first of my two friends was tying in to clean Autumn, a group of four showed up to run Rock Wars. As bad as I wanted to climb it that day, I knew I’d be going back later in the year so the decision was made not to wait around.
Still seeking solitude and still trying to get my friends to lead something, we walked back down the hill, got in the car, and drove the mile to Pebble Beach. Back up the hill we lumbered, now thoroughly tired of hiking. The sun had been out for a while so we hoped some of the climbs at Pebble would be dry, and some were. However the two that I really hoped to do, Central Scrutinizer and Environmental Impact were soaked. Scabies was free, so I hung the draws for my friends, and they both led it in good style.
We played around on some other stuff there, including Reserved Seating and Zambezi Plunge. I have absolutely no idea how to climb off-widths, but I figured since I was there and I had big gear with me I’d give it a shot. It was fun to try, but didn’t really work out so well, so I ended up downclimbing the handcrack, retrieving my gear as I went. Around 7:00 we walked back down the hill, stopped at Miguel’s for some pizza, and went back to the cabin once again.
We were very hopeful that the third day would be dry. This was the best forecast of the trip, only a 30% chance of isolated thunderstorms. If it was dry when we woke up, we were going to go to PMRP to get on Amarillo Sunset and Samurai. We really didn’t have a choice to wait any rain out this day, as it was our last day there and most of us had to be at work on Tuesday morning. With an 8+ hour drive home to consider, we knew we had to be out of the gorge by early afternoon.
I set my alarm for 6a.m, but didn’t need it because at around 5:45 it started raining so hard it woke me up. Nothing like starting off the day swearing at inanimate objects. We’d have to go with Plan B. The night before when we were considering the possibility of rain we checked The Solar Collector wall in the book. It indicated the wall stayed dry in a light rain but would get wet in a downpour. The monsoon going on outside definitely qualified as the latter, but we decided to chance it anyway.
By 9:30 we arrived at Solar Collector to find half the climbs dry. This was probably the coolest looking single pitch wall I’d ever seen, and the climbing wasn’t bad either. Loved crawling into those giant huecos and just hanging out. We climbed Green Horn, The Buddha Hole, Mona Lisa Overdrive, and Herd Menatality before packing it in at around 1:30 and heading back to the car. After a quick stop at the gas station we were back on the Mountain Parkway pointed toward home, where we arrived just before midnight. Tuesday morning at 7:30 I was back at work, with a weeklong return trip in October to look forward to. Hopefully it doesn’t rain….
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