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Re: [gblauer] Weekend Warrior:
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losbill
Jun 12, 2011, 2:39 PM
Views: 17920
Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 416
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Viciado - Thoroughly enjoyed your TR. It told a story and brought your outing to life for me. Good job.
DaGibbs - Long drive but seems you got a pretty full day in. I used to day trip the Gunks, just short of 4 hours one-way, but that got real old, real quick. Gail slab climbing is a different sort of beast. My first time on a real slab was at Whitehorse with two very experienced slab climbers. Each pitch they offered me the lead, each pitch I deferred commenting I needed just a bit more time to get used to it. Somewhat unnerving about going without a gear placement for 30, 40, 50 feet or more. Finally after about 6 pitches or so I look up and see a long flake and then a crack up a headwall. "Okay, guys. I'll take this one!" So much for getting used to runout slab.
Chad -- Cool pics. Very artistic structures!
Spent the last two weekends at the Gunks working out the early season kinks. One "highlight" was a route-finding mini-epic on Hans Puss (5.7). The first pitch goes up a big, overhanging, juggy, left-facing corner then breaks right out on to a face. I ended up going too high before exiting right ended up 12 feet above the belay. The second pitch was supposed to traverse far right. Decided to move right, create a anchor bring my second up and sort things out. Moved right, no gear; moved further right, pretty dicey 5.8ish terrain, still no gear. Further right, peered around a corner, "knowing" there would be a nice fat crack to anchor in. No such luck, just smooth rock covered by an ocean of untrod lichen. I look back. Gee I'm 25 feet from my last gear. Tail between my legs I head back very, very carefully. Half way back there is a left-facing corner with a finger crack that will take gear above my head. Okay I will bail out here to the GT Ledge. I start up to the base of the corner and someone shouts up that I'm headed up to the P2 crux (5.10a) of Feast of Fools. Okay. That's not going to work. I am just starting to do 5.9's at the Gunks. I finally give up. Back to the gear I placed when I gained the face. Downclimb to the belay and bring my second up with a ton of rope drag. Duh!
Although I am not near mid-season climbing form, I am in mid-season s'more eating form. Thanks, Gail! Got a little sloppy however. Had my headlamp out last night and there was some sort of sticky white stuff on it. Took me a second to make the connection to last weekend's campfire!
(This post was edited by losbill on Jun 13, 2011, 11:20 AM)
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Post edited by losbill
() on Jun 13, 2011, 11:20 AM
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