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Gmburns2000
Apr 5, 2010, 5:18 PM
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It's baaa-ack!
time to revive the Weekend Warrior thread for 2010.
This is three weekends compiled into one, short post called: Living and Climbing in Maine
"I've been away for too long, and yet it sometimes feels as if it isn't long enough. My roots are firmly planted in Downeast Maine, but I haven't watered them for years. When I decided to go halfway home - to the Midcoast instead of Downeast - I walked away from the young, dynamic, and fast atmosphere in Boston to the slow, easy-going pace that settles one's soul into a peaceful lullabye of Sunday drives and careless lives."
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gblauer
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Apr 7, 2010, 3:02 AM
Post #202 of 1159
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As many of you know I had two surgeries on my feet in November. Last Thursday (April 1st) my doctor officially declared that my surgeries were a failure and dismissively told me to find a new sport. My feet are so much worse than before surgery. I am in pain every step I take. As such, I haven't climbed since the surgery.
Well, Mitch (the love of my life) made some metal inserts for my rock climbing shoes and I tried climbing last Saturday and SUnday. While I only lead gunks moderates, I was reasonably comfortable. I would say my pain was about a 5 out of 10. Not bad, not great, manageable. Mitch is working on a more permanent solution for my shoes, I have to figure out pain medication and new climbing techniques (during my last lead on Saturday, I actually threw a knee up rather than use my toes!). I think it's going to be several more weeks before I have the confidence to attempt anything harder than a 7.
I have been working with a personal trainer all winter, so I have actually been able to build my strength, although I haven't been able to any gym climbing conditioning. I am hoping to try gym climbing soon, but, I don't want to push my feet too hard. I would rather "save" them for my gunks weekends.
We will climb again this weekend and I will do more runs to get used to my new "normal". Truth be told I am devastated and heartbroken. Those emotions won't change anything so I am just trying to muscle through this bump in the road.
More next Sunday...
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davidnn5
Apr 7, 2010, 5:27 AM
Post #203 of 1159
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Good for you, and nice to hear.
Grades are numbers meant to very roughly reflect difficulty. They work on averages - i.e. the average person is this fit and has this physiology - BUT they don't reflect the difficulties thrown in your way.
We all go through a period where we go down grades, either due to age, injury, lifestyle, whatever. As long as we're going up pieces of rock, there's hope.
And hey, who knows, you might start campussing overhung routes if you keep up all the strength work.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 7, 2010, 7:39 PM
Post #204 of 1159
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Wow Gail,
This is both tough to read and good to read all at the same time. Despite your pain and the difficulties that you've had, I'm really happy that you're finding a solution. In fact, I'm damn impressed that you're even leading, let alone thinking that 5.7 is the toughest you'll get to. I'm perfectly healthy and 5.7 in the 'Gunks is plenty challenge enough for me on most days. 
Keep up the good work and hopefully we'll meet up this year...
Greg
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gblauer
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Apr 25, 2010, 2:05 PM
Post #205 of 1159
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Rain Rain Go Away
We enjoyed a gorgeous day on Saturday at the gunks. But, I have never seen the place SOOOO crowded. It was absolutely insane. That said, we managed to get on Thin Slabs Direct (the third pitch is where it's at, what a fun climb), Sente, Directissima and Doubleissima. We actually arrived at the base of HIgh E at around 4PM and no one was there. What a shock! (There was a bit of wait on the HIgh E ledge, with a few parties backed up).
My new feet were not happy with my choice of warm up; thin slabs. Thin and slab are not good combination for someone who cannot push off her toes. That said, I managed to lead the climb and was ultimately happy with my ascent. Sente is another climb that was stupid for me to do. Slabby and delicate, it takes excellent footwork and toe control. My toes are terrible and the pain is not worth the effort. I very much enjoyed Directissima and DOubleissima. I love overhanging jug hauls. It suits my climbing style and my new feet. I guess I will have to concentrate on those types of climbs. Right now, they are above my lead capability, but, as a second they were an easy "float" for me. My personal trainer made me much stronger than I was before surgery, so even though I hadn't climbed since October, I am able to work the steep stuff.
I sure hope that Saturday's crowds are NOT indicative of the summer to come. If so, I think I will work on the weekends and climb during the week. It was crazy crowded, there was a party of 8 top roping the first pitch of arrow (never going up to the second pitch). It was pissing everyone off (there was a "buzz" at the base and everyone was grumbling).
It's raining today, we will do yard work in the rain so that we don't have to waste any climbing days up here. I have weeds to pull, Azaleas to plant and mulching. I guess I will be very wet by the end of the day.
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Gmburns2000
Apr 25, 2010, 3:02 PM
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gblauer wrote: Rain Rain Go Away We enjoyed a gorgeous day on Saturday at the gunks. But, I have never seen the place SOOOO crowded. It was absolutely insane. That said, we managed to get on Thin Slabs Direct (the third pitch is where it's at, what a fun climb), Sente, Directissima and Doubleissima. We actually arrived at the base of HIgh E at around 4PM and no one was there. What a shock! (There was a bit of wait on the HIgh E ledge, with a few parties backed up). My new feet were not happy with my choice of warm up; thin slabs. Thin and slab are not good combination for someone who cannot push off her toes. That said, I managed to lead the climb and was ultimately happy with my ascent. Sente is another climb that was stupid for me to do. Slabby and delicate, it takes excellent footwork and toe control. My toes are terrible and the pain is not worth the effort. I very much enjoyed Directissima and DOubleissima. I love overhanging jug hauls. It suits my climbing style and my new feet. I guess I will have to concentrate on those types of climbs. Right now, they are above my lead capability, but, as a second they were an easy "float" for me. My personal trainer made me much stronger than I was before surgery, so even though I hadn't climbed since October, I am able to work the steep stuff.
Gail, the difference in tone between this post and your last one is happily different. I'm glad that you're working through the process and climbing through the pain. It sounds as if the pain sucks and will be a problem for a while to come, but hey, if you're getting out still then it means you're not simply giving up. That's awesome. I can't wait to hear how the season progresses.
In reply to: I sure hope that Saturday's crowds are NOT indicative of the summer to come. If so, I think I will work on the weekends and climb during the week. It was crazy crowded, there was a party of 8 top roping the first pitch of arrow (never going up to the second pitch). It was pissing everyone off (there was a "buzz" at the base and everyone was grumbling).
I'm surprised no one said anything. I've been there when a guide has set up a TR and I've talked with him and said I'm going up anyway. On two occassions it worked out well. One one of those occassions the guide let me go ahead of him even though he was close to heading up himself, and on the other occassion he came up after me and we worked out space on the anchor. On the one occassion where it didn't work out well the guide got kind of pissy, but I went anyway and made him work around me at the anchor. We rapped right over his clients, too. Didn't give a shit.
When people are cool about things, then everything is cool. When people aren't, well... I understand why Arrow makes for a decent TR, and I don't really complain about that, per se, but I'll certainly complain if the TR folks aren't willing to work in other people. I'm really surprised no one stepped in and took the climb away.
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 26, 2010, 1:08 AM
Post #207 of 1159
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gblauer wrote: I sure hope that Saturday's crowds are NOT indicative of the summer to come. If so, I think I will work on the weekends and climb during the week. It was crazy crowded, there was a party of 8 top roping the first pitch of arrow (never going up to the second pitch). It was pissing everyone off (there was a "buzz" at the base and everyone was grumbling).
If you are able to climb during the week, I don't know why you are there on the weekend. As far as crowds go, though, I have never had a problem with finding open climbs. But, I agree, gang toproping one of the most popular climbs on the cliff is bad form. I did a few classics last week, though, that I didn't see anyone lining up for  .
Josh
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losbill
Apr 26, 2010, 8:43 PM
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Gail glad to hear you are out and climbing. I was down Monday and Tuesday then Friday and Saturday. I was keeping an eye out for you.
M&T were totally deserted, almost to the point of being spooky. Had someone new to the Gunks with me so we were nailing all classics. Just walk up, drop the rope and go. P1 Erect Direction to CCK Direct was the highpoint, great fun.
F&S were busy. On Saturday, similar to the Arrow Wall situation, a group of about 10 people in their early 20's occupied Ant's Line, Bonnie's and Ursula from 10 AM to past 4 PM. One of them aided up Ant's Line taking over 1&1/2 hour to do so. They weren't obnoxious just oblivious. In retrospect I probably should have gently asked them to consider the impact of their behavior on others. Just to get them thinking about etiquette just a bit. But I was feeling just a bit too mellow to do so.
We did In The Groove, Alpine Diversion, P1 of C&C and Groovy waiting to get on Ant's Line before giving up and moving on. So on the upside the weather, companions and climbing were great both days.
So Josh when were you down and what were some of the highlights?
Bill
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blueeyedclimber
Apr 27, 2010, 1:44 AM
Post #209 of 1159
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Bill,
We were there Last Weekend (4/18 & 19). We did Sente to Thin Slabs Direct, Cheap Thrills, Tough Shift, Something Interesting, The Dangler, Graveyard Shift, and Overhang Layback.
Was a good time!
Josh
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gblauer
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Apr 28, 2010, 3:14 AM
Post #210 of 1159
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Bill, Will you be there this weekend? Mitch is going camping with his brothers and I need a partner on Sunday. You game? Gail
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losbill
Apr 28, 2010, 9:27 AM
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Gail --- Would love to but I have a family thing on Sunday so will not be available. --- Bill
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gblauer
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Apr 30, 2010, 2:29 AM
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we may head to millbrook on Saturday.
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curt
May 2, 2010, 4:32 AM
Post #214 of 1159
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blueeyedclimber wrote: Bill, We were there Last Weekend (4/18 & 19). We did Sente to Thin Slabs Direct, Cheap Thrills, Tough Shift, Something Interesting, The Dangler, Graveyard Shift, and Overhang Layback. Was a good time! Josh
Sente to Thin Slabs Direct is excellent--especially if you don't use the bolts.
Curt
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sethg
May 2, 2010, 1:38 PM
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I don't post much here on rc.com, but I want to chime in to say that to see that Gail is out there climbing hard despite the toe problems is a total inspiration to me. I broke my ankle last October on Insuhlation, and although I am more or less completely recovered (the ankle still gets stiff and sore, at random times), I'm still a great deal less fit than I was before the accident and I am slowly working my way back to the level I reached last year. I am determined to get there, though, and Gail's progress reminds me that it is possible!
My own weekend warrior story, from yesterday:
I went up to the Gunks with the idea that I'd just try to get more comfortable again with 5.6s and 5.7s, not try to push too hard, focus on being healthy. It was only my second time outside this season; during my first outing in March I thought 5.6s were challenging, and I felt like my head wasn't quite right. I was very tentative.
I had it in mind yesterday that maybe we'd try to do Bloody Mary. I thought this would be good for me because it is a 5.7 I haven't done, and it used to be rated 5.6 so it can't be that bad. And the second (5.6) pitch sounded really cool. The first two pitches were great. I loved the first pitch, and the second pitch was even better. Really a thrilling overhanging traverse after the first roof, with really good foot and handholds. I can't think of another 5.6 in the Gunks where you have to place gear-- at least a couple pieces if you're thinking of yourself AND your second-- in such an overhanging position. (Maybe the second pitch of Bold-ville, but that one isn't as overhanging.) And it still seems fair at 5.6. Really nice moves, and it's all there. Unfortunately the third pitch sucked (dirty, run-out, eventually a bushwhack).
We rapped down the Arch/Ribs bolts, and then when we got back to our stuff I realized that despite how crowded it was in the Trapps, Drunkard's Delight and Morning After were open. So I thought we should jump on one of them. Only problem is both have first pitches rated 5.8-, and both feature scary thin face climbing right off the deck with scant pro. Looking at them, though, I felt like I could do Drunkard's. I was feeling good, 5.7 had felt totally comfy, like an easy chair. Williams says "small cam protects bouldery start," and I thought I could see where he meant this small cam to go. I also thought I spied another placement for a similar cam at around the same height to the left. So I started up, made two moves, and then placed one cam (red C3) about 8-10 feet up. Then I made a delicate move to the right to get into the business of the pitch. While I was still on a good foothold, I could just barely lean over to get my tiny purple Metolius 4CU into the spot where I think Williams wants you to put a cam. I got it in and it seemed like it was decent. Then I committed to the low crux of the route. I believe I got the correct smeary footholds and the proper slopey handholds, and I was then able to get my right foot onto the next good hold and start to rock up to a stance. I ALMOST made it. I'm pretty sure my approach was sound. But then I fell. And both cams held, my partner Liz was not lifted off her feet, and I was kept off the deck by my two good micro cams with about two feet to spare. But damn it all, somehow in the fall I hit my right ankle (the same fucking ankle I broke last fall), and it seemed like it could be very slightly sprained. It was immediately sore.
But I could still climb on the ankle, it seemed, and I almost got the crux the first time, so I started up again. But I was more tentative the second time, and I didn't feel I had it when I started the move, so I had Liz take and then lower me. And then I started up a third time. But before I committed to the hard move I suddenly thought, out loud, "why am I doing this?" Risking repeated lead falls ten feet off the ground, protected by micro cams, on a known ankle-breaker of a route. Such idiocy. This was not the plan. Just then two guys walked up who were hoping to climb the route, so I told them to have at it and asked them to retrieve my gear, which they did.
So after a brief regrouping we went and climed Maria. Such a great route. And my partner Liz got her first 5.6 lead (5.6+!) by doing the second pitch. My bum ankle stiffened and swelled a bit while I waited to follow the second pitch, but I still led the third pitch anyway, and it was no problem.
On the plus side I felt much more like myself climbing today than I did in March. And this morning the ankle is already a little better; I hope it will be back to its prior slightly damaged state in a couple days.
(This post was edited by sethg on May 2, 2010, 2:03 PM)
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gblauer
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May 2, 2010, 10:52 PM
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I love Blood Mary, P1 is fun, P2 is Super Great!
Gunks Saturday:
Since Mitch was spending the weekend with his brothers in West Virginia, I climbed with Michael on Saturday. I knew I would be in for a big day, since MIchael routinely warms up on 10's and then we move up from there.
We started up Alpine Diversions (worthless P1) but Michael kept going up and ran the second pitch variation (10b) of Obstacle Dilusion. At the time, I did not know were were on a 10b, felt a little stiff for an 8!
Michael was feeling like he wanted to do something "hard" so we hit Ridiculissima (10D). MIchael ran P1/P2 together and when he took a hang at the crux I figured I would really be in trouble. Actually, I did fine on the climb. I took one hang right below the roof crux (I was so pumped, I cleaned and racked a lot of gear while enroute). We did a third pitch off the GT ledge (the first crack after High E). Ridiculissima is great climb, but, it will be eons before I ever lead this one!
We then went to run all three pitches of Erect Direction. I was really beat on the first pitch and I knew P2 was a "the second must not fall" type of climb (apparently you can't get back on the climb). I begged off and we walked on the GT ledge to P2 of Keep on Struttin. Michael struggled to get off the ledge (no gear the "easy" way), gear the hard way. He ended up placing gear to the right then traversing left to start the climb. Well, I went up to clean the gear and tried the direct start several times and I could not get it. By this time, the rope was so tight, I could not traverse left. MIchael had to lower me to the ledge and then I started all over again. It's hard to believe that P2/P3 are 9's! P2 had a crazy crazy traverse (protected by a bolt and some gear) with NO feet. THe traverse was pretty burly. Once you do the traverse you pull the roof and head up to a pristine white face. It's daunting looking, but, the holds all emerge as you climb. I felt P2 was significantly harder than a 9. (Last season I put up my first 9, trust me, it did not compare to this climb...this was wayyyy harder.) We were both exhausted and called it a day.
Sunday
Patrick and I met at 730 and ran four pitches in the Nears. Patrick had housework so our plan was to to get in a quick workout. We did Layback (I had never done Layback) and found the opening, unprotected run outside the chimney somewhat dicey. The layback was fun (longer than I expected). P2 is a delight and would be quite a lead for a new leader. Easy, but very exposed climbing.
We ran up Roseland and then set a TR on Shitface. Shitface us a great climb with a trickly little crux. I know there is a "secret" hold up there, I always forget where it is.
Looking forward to next weekend; I am gong to lead p1 of Baby. (I have lead P2 many times, but, the offwidth always scared me). We are now proud parents of a #5 (thank you cam club at rock and snow, our #5 was 1/2 price) and I am eager to use it on Baby. From there, who knows? Maybe Son of Easy O.
I am getting used to my new feet, they hurt all the time, but, I can use my outside edges fairly effectively. I am working hard to be "technical", working my feet and trying NOT to use just upper body strength.
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johnwesely
May 7, 2010, 4:44 PM
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Cross posted from the PCI
We set off at about 9:30 to head for the Lost Wall with My friend Drew, his girlfriend Danya, my girlfriend Tatum, and myself. The ride goes fine. I don't have an inkling of fear and I am really looking forward to the day ahead. The company ensures that we will be staying on easy routes, but that was perfectly ok with me. We get to the wall and I get ready to lead Steggo (5.6 PG 13). I climb up about fifteen feet and place my first piece, a small steel nut, and I am shaking. I am on super easy climbing, feet on ledges, and I am shaking. Every possible bad situation goes running through my head. I climb another 15 feet and place a blue TCU. This time, with my feet on even better ledges, I shake once again. I imagine my friends having to watch me plummet to the ground. It is almost too much to bare. I climb another 10 feet set a micro nut and a sideways stopper. I mantle on a ledge and place a yellow tcu about 4 feet above the last piece. I am gripped with fear. This 5.6 feels like an X rated 5.12. The gear is all solid but I can't seem to shake the fear no matter how hard I try. I climb another fifteen feet and arrive at the base of a vertical seam. It looks difficult. I place a bomber .75, a truck grey DMM Peenut, and a yellow stopper. Every piece of gear was bomber, but I couldn't even bring my self to trust all three together. I was shaking hard again, but I knew I had to go for it. The finishing moves up the seam actually turned out to be the easiest moves on the route somehow, and I built an anchor off this massive tree. I lower, exhausted. My girlfriend tells me I looked scared, I tell her I was. My friends all top rope the route and Drew takes down the anchor. A spider is attacking a silkworm dangling from a tree. I take a picture with my new film camera. Hopefully, it will turn out.
We move on to the next climb, Guzzler (5.8). It is a beautiful crack that varies from fists to ringlocks. It was the route that we came to lost wall to climb as my crack technique could use some work. I gear up and set off. The route is really fun. I sew it up with gear, but this time I am not so scared. Uncharacteristically nervous, yes, but not scared. The crux comes with pulling a roof into a finger crack. The first jam is a super solid finger lock followed by an index and middle finger tips lock. I frantically search for the next hold and pitch off. I get back on and find a semi hidden hold and finish the route. Drew climbs it once on toprope, flailing a bunch on the upper crux but eventually getting to the top. It is Danya's turn next. She has never climber before, but she is rearing to go. She cruises through the opening hand jam bulge then saunters up the rest of the crack to the base of the roof. At this point she is not that confident, but she gives it a go. She throws a knee bar under the roof and attempts the moves. She falls. She tries again and falls. She is getting rather frustrated and wants Drew to let her down. He says he will if she tries one more time. She tries and makes it, rather impressive for a first times, and she comes down smiling even though she is covered in blood. Tough chick. I climb Guzzler again on top rope so I cam work on my crack technique and take down the the anchor. The scramble down was quite uneventful.
We take a break for lunch, and I go to take pictures of this gorgeous waterfall. It free falls fifty feet and behind it is this deep and tall cave. If fixed gear was allowed, the most classic sport climb ever would climb up the arch behind the water fall. It is bright day but partly cloudy. My goal was to take a picture with a super fast shutter speed in order to freeze the waterfall. I had enough light for 1/2000 of a second, but then a cloud came over head. Drats, I was so close. I was about to give up when the cloud moved, exposing the sun once again. I could not get the 2000 shutter speed again, but I did get a shot with 1000 and two with 750. Hopefully they will come out pretty cool. I go back to Guzzler and pack up my gear.
Our next objective is Booze and Broads, a perfect 5.9 hands corner capped by a massive roof. I am really excited about this climb. We cross the river and make our way to the climb. On the way, we pass the prehistoric wall, home of 5 amazing looking 5.11+ to b 5.12 climbs. If I ever go back to lost wall, it will be to get on those. We trek on but I can tell my team is weary. I forgot to say that it was 90 degrees and humid outside, hardly ideal weather for hiking or climbing. We reach Didn't Make it to Sunset (5.8), and decide to climb it and call it a day. DMitS follows a hands to fingers crack to a small roof followed by crimpy face climbing to the top. I start climbing, placing a 1 and 2 Camalot almost on top of each other. The crack was disgusting, wet and dirty, and I was feeling pretty insecure. I make a few moves into finger jams and set an Orange TCU about 6 feet above my last piece. I am shaking like a madman, overcome with completely irrational fear. I make it to the base of the roof and see a perfect spot for a 2 Camalot and feel like an idiot for placing it one foot from another piece. I do find a small slot for a blue tcu though, so my mind is somewhat at ease. I pull the roof on crimps, and that ease immediately disappears. I am freaking out. I place a 4 inch metolious cam in the adjacent wide crack, and keep moving. After a few face moves I place a 00 cam and finish the route. No one else wants to climb it so I rap off the fixed cord. I am pretty exhausted. We head home, and everyone falls asleep in the car except for me.
My lead head is about a hundredth of what it was before Josh's death, but I think I made a lot a progress yesterday because I never felt as bad on the other climbs as I did on the first. Anyways, I hope that wasn't to long. I should have broken it up into parts for the spirit of PCI. Thanks for reading.
(This post was edited by johnwesely on May 8, 2010, 3:11 PM)
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Gmburns2000
May 7, 2010, 5:04 PM
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sethg wrote: But damn it all, somehow in the fall I hit my right ankle (the same fucking ankle I broke last fall), and it seemed like it could be very slightly sprained. It was immediately sore.
I battled that all last year. take it easy. it will sprain over and over again. I had to give up climbing a couple of times for a couple of months each time just to let it heal. staying on easy stuff, even when you think you're ok to push it, may be best until you're absolutely sure.
I sprained the same ankle four times in 2009. the final three times were simply reaggravations of the first one, with two being mild and one being both a reaggravation and a whole new sprain in different parts.
In reply to: So after a brief regrouping we went and climed Maria. Such a great route. And my partner Liz got her first 5.6 lead (5.6+!) by doing the second pitch. My bum ankle stiffened and swelled a bit while I waited to follow the second pitch, but I still led the third pitch anyway, and it was no problem. On the plus side I felt much more like myself climbing today than I did in March. And this morning the ankle is already a little better; I hope it will be back to its prior slightly damaged state in a couple days.
nice. way to keep at it. just keep an eye out for bad falls.
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Gmburns2000
May 7, 2010, 5:05 PM
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losing a climbing friend is tough. keep your head and keep climbing. you'll find it all works itself out over time.
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sethg
May 7, 2010, 8:51 PM
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I hear you, Greg. It's hard to take it easy, though. Recovery is BORING. I don't care if I limp when I walk, so long as I can climb! I'm dying to get back to working on the 5.9s, but I don't know if it will happen this year. I have to set realistic goals and be better about sticking to them.
John, I can relate to your head issues. I appreciate your honesty in writing about them, and I hope your upcoming residency at the Gunks will allow you to put them behind you!
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Gmburns2000
May 7, 2010, 9:48 PM
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sethg wrote: I hear you, Greg. It's hard to take it easy, though. Recovery is BORING. I don't care if I limp when I walk, so long as I can climb! I'm dying to get back to working on the 5.9s, but I don't know if it will happen this year. I have to set realistic goals and be better about sticking to them. John, I can relate to your head issues. I appreciate your honesty in writing about them, and I hope your upcoming residency at the Gunks will allow you to put them behind you!
I hear you there...
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gblauer
Moderator
May 8, 2010, 1:29 PM
Post #222 of 1159
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Rain Rain Go Away Version 2.0! (Does it always rain every time I want to climb at the gunks?)
Mitch and I headed to the Nears at 5PM on Friday evening. I had big "plans", warm up on Gelsa and do my first lead of Roseland. Alas, my biorhythms must have been at an all time low for "physical" and "mental". I was dropping stuff, missing my clips, every move felt like a 5.12, I was run out, couldn't find pro etc.
I took one look at Roseland and figured I had better wait since I was in such a crappy climbing frame of mind. We ran up grease gun groove and once again everything felt hard. I am glad I didn't do Roseland!
It's raining hard here this morning (lots of thunder and lightning). It's supposed to clear up by noonish and then get windy. I am hoping that the winds will dry the rock and we will get out in the late afternoon. In the mean time, I need to get rid of this horrible stiff neck and deep sense of forboding. On second thought, I might be better off not climbing...
The sun burst through in the noonish range and there were fierce winds all afternoon. We hit the cliff at 4 and it was totally dry. It was windy, cold, but we had some fun climbing Baby, Twisted Sister and Easy O. Much more relaxed today, I felt much better climbing.
(This post was edited by gblauer on May 9, 2010, 12:39 AM)
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losbill
May 8, 2010, 2:42 PM
Post #223 of 1159
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Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 416
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Wow Gail re: Gunks Saturday - you are really climbing hard! Great job! You are going to be bored coming out with me and my 5.8/5.9- leading but would be pleasure to follow you on whatever you want to do. You may be antsy about the rate of your recovery but it seems you are getting there. Roseland - some days you are on, some days you aren't. The climb isn't going anywhere. Regarding today - blah! Got a hard couple of hours in bouldering at Crow Hill yesterday knowing it would be lousy today. Hope you guys get out this PM.
Josh -- impressive ticks!!! Next time we are down there at the same time would love to get a climb or two in together.
Greg & Seth - and I know you have heard this before Greg also Seth not sure nature of your PT post injury, so this maybe old news to you as well - very severely sprained my ankle playing ice hockey a number of years ago. Stumbled around on it for nearly a year, re-spraining it several times before going to see an orthopedist. He tells me that with severe sprains you atrophy muscles and nerves and that you need to rebuild muscle and retrain nerves or it is never going to get really better. Never thought PT was terribly useful, now truly a true believer. Hot, cold massages, ultrasound treatments to get rid of deep, residual swelling and progressive rehab of muscle and nerve 3 months later all good and have been since. Subsequently, early in my trad career, in separate falls resprained and broken fifth metatarsal. Both times back to PT. both times ankle AOK. It has been 5 years since the last injury. Nevertheless I remain very leery of situations right off the ground or off ledges where a fall could risk impact. I have had issues following Farewell to Arms and have backed off Handy Andy and City Lights, have yet to lead Diagonal at Crow Hill; all well within my climbing ability; due to concerns of how a slip could result in injury. It doesn't take much to screw up an ankle. Just isn't worth it to me to lose climbing time and have to work through rehab and reconditioning once again.
Regarding coming back off injury or layoff - hardly climbed at all for 9 months. When I came back I was having head trouble with 5.5s at the Gunks, 6 months later cruised up Bonnie's which I had never been on before and my highest rated climb at the Gunks. It takes awhile but it does come back. Good luck with it Seth.
John - Thanks for sharing. Sorry for your loss. Hang in there.
bill
PS from the length of this post you can tell its raining here!
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johnwesely
May 8, 2010, 3:12 PM
Post #224 of 1159
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Registered: Jun 13, 2006
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I added pictures to my above post.
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sethg
May 8, 2010, 4:48 PM
Post #225 of 1159
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Registered: Jun 9, 2006
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I led Handy Andy last fall before I hurt myself-- hated it. You come in sideways, so you always feel like you're about to deck. I got a good cam in the horizontal above the 2d pin and so started to relax a bit, and then my feet slipped and I amost went for a ride. My hands held on, though, so I never weighted the rope, and I smeared up to the stance in a hurry! Then there's another runout on easier low-angled terrain above the stance. NEVER AGAIN.
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This year I've been making an effort to avoid the trapps for this reason. So far of 5 days at the gunks, only 1 of those was at the trapps. Between a party gang-toproping the first (mediocre, and 5.fucking6) pitch of arrow, and another party gang toproping ants' line all day (a f'in 80 foot single pitch route!) I don't think i'll be returning to the trapps unless i'm going midweek. 
