good read

Maybe I'm dense, but I don't get what you're asking. Unless it's just another way of getting folks to read your blog, in which case - cheers, that's cool.

GO

Heh. The "fall from grace" is kind of funny. Did he just jump off a boulder? Headfirst?

No, he was squatting down trying to get a picture on the top of the boulder. The top of it is a pretty narrow ridge and he lost his balance just as he was ready to use the camera. It's a shame he didn't get another half second because he had just switched the camera to video but hadn't pushed the start button yet. Anyway, I heard a bunch of cursing and looked over to see him rolling over the edge of the rock with the camera held up in the air. If I hadn't been so worried that he was going to break his head it would have been pretty funny.

It was a great day. By the way, I love your blog, it's freaking awesome, you do some good writing.

I'm trying to get others to post up their stories from their weekend jaunts. Most TRs seem to stem from major trips (mine to Moab, another's to China, someone else's to J-Tree, etc.), but I find there are a lot of stories in the regular, at-home climbing days, too. Take Shokabubu's son in his post above, there's a story in there somewhere. I'm interested in learning about that.

I'd like to read about those days out that aren't necessarily big trips.

A big trip is relative to where one lives. For me, a weekend trip includes China and KL Malaysia because of whee I live. On the other hand, a small local crag like Quincy Quarry would be a major trip.

I lived in Yosemite of a year. At that time, Serenity Crack and Royal Arches were routes I did after work. Now, I live in Indonesia, my weekend trips normally mean first ascents.

Cheers
E

I'd love to hear about those. We don't get very many accounts of stuff over there.

I think you mean you don't read many of the accounts. I've posted trips here and on my personal blog several times. http://class5photos.blogspot.com/

www.climbing.com, climbing magazine's website has also started a new blog for me at http://www.climbing.com/...gs/emmanuel_lacoste/
I post stuff specifically related to climbing there. Other stuff will stay on my personal blog. In all honesty, I find posting trip report to this site is a wasted of time for me. I write on my blog so people I meet, know, or am related too can keep track of me. Most people on this site have a very limited and narrow view of life and climbing in general. (Not all, just most)

I've read you blog a couple of times. I'm not a regular reader, just not enough new stuff there. I like some of your photos. I also think you need to push your climbing a bit more, but I base that on your various post.

Cheers
E

Well thanks for reading and your advice. I'm definitely pushing it more this year than in year's past. I just feel better. Also, I hope to have updates on a weekly basis from here on out.

I've read a few of your posts, too, on your blog, but wasn't aware of your climbing blog. I'll check that out now. Luke told me to get in touch with him in June or July about that. Maybe I'll shoot him an e-mail sooner than that.

Cheers...

My blog was just created, goes live May 29th. I think your blog has potential and that you do well. Rereading my post, I think some might misunderstand what I wrote when I said no new info.

Most of the routes and place you mention, I've already climbed. To be honest, I would read it more often if your blog was more personal than general. Emotions and thought would be great. Personal views.

I'll be in Colorado next month, if you're in the area, maybe we can climb together.

Cheers
E

Alright, since Greg asked, here's a quick write up on my last trip. I wouldn't call it a weekend, as it was only a Sat cragging trip. Anyrate.
I called around to see who was interested, and got a couple of my gumby freinds to commit. And I'm bringing the boys. Actually the one freind made a trip to Tahq with me last summer for a multipitch climb. 3 pitches with the first being a 200 foot rope stretcher. Not to much of a gumby anymore.
None the less we headed out about 730 to Big Rock at Perris Lake in Riverside county. It is primarily bolted slab, but the bolt spacing is old school trad style. To get there we take the toll road as this saves a good 20 minutes of driving. We get to the State park and pay at the unmaned hut. Drive over to the climber parking, pack up and head out.
We get about 50 feet and there's a rent a cop parked at the gate at the end of the road. Sorry guy's but you can't go that way, they're working on the dam for the next week or so.
Me: So whats with all these cars, where are they?
Rent A Cop: Prolly out fishing.
Well not likely. This area is where the climbers park, the fishermen park else where.
Dang, what to do. We had driven 1 1/2 hours, paid $5 in tolls and $8 parking. Now what?
Start walking back. We could climb that hill, mess around on that boulder. OK.
So we get to the boulder start messing around. I find a place to loop some slings for TR'n.
But we're keeping an eye on the rent a cop from up on the hill. Eventually the county Sherrif rolls in and parks next to her. Then the Sherrif checks everyone's parking decal a heads out. But wait the rent a cop is gone.
Well before I pull out the rope, lets see what happens. Some bicyclist roll past the gate. Ride out towards the rock and way out of sight. LETS GO.
Cool she's gone.
We walk up to the rock, and holy cow! Its crowded. Practically every route has someone on it.
So I jump on Africa Flake, a short 60 foot climb. But with only 2 bolts for protection, the first being 20-25 feet up. Which was actually good for me. Last climb I did, I lost focus at the crux. Well more like wasn't in the zone, but I was able to get in the zone and focus this time.
My buds and my boys all got to climb. With my older boy Jake climbing to the anchors, about 60 feet high twice in a row. The younger one only about 30 feet up. But they had a good day. My two freinds did well, with the more experinced one pulling some nice thin 5.8 face moves.
Afterwards, we just keep saying. Yup can't walk that way guys, its closed.
NOT.

Alright, since Greg asked, here's a quick write up on my last trip. I wouldn't call it a weekend, as it was only a Sat cragging trip. Anyrate.
I called around to see who was interested, and got a couple of my gumby freinds to commit. And I'm bringing the boys. Actually the one freind made a trip to Tahq with me last summer for a multipitch climb. 3 pitches with the first being a 200 foot rope stretcher. Not to much of a gumby anymore.
None the less we headed out about 730 to Big Rock at Perris Lake in Riverside county. It is primarily bolted slab, but the bolt spacing is old school trad style. To get there we take the toll road as this saves a good 20 minutes of driving. We get to the State park and pay at the unmaned hut. Drive over to the climber parking, pack up and head out.
We get about 50 feet and there's a rent a cop parked at the gate at the end of the road. Sorry guy's but you can't go that way, they're working on the dam for the next week or so.
Me: So whats with all these cars, where are they?
Rent A Cop: Prolly out fishing.
Well not likely. This area is where the climbers park, the fishermen park else where.
Dang, what to do. We had driven 1 1/2 hours, paid $5 in tolls and $8 parking. Now what?
Start walking back. We could climb that hill, mess around on that boulder. OK.
So we get to the boulder start messing around. I find a place to loop some slings for TR'n.
But we're keeping an eye on the rent a cop from up on the hill. Eventually the county Sherrif rolls in and parks next to her. Then the Sherrif checks everyone's parking decal a heads out. But wait the rent a cop is gone.
Well before I pull out the rope, lets see what happens. Some bicyclist roll past the gate. Ride out towards the rock and way out of sight. LETS GO.
Cool she's gone.
We walk up to the rock, and holy cow! Its crowded. Practically every route has someone on it.
So I jump on Africa Flake, a short 60 foot climb. But with only 2 bolts for protection, the first being 20-25 feet up. Which was actually good for me. Last climb I did, I lost focus at the crux. Well more like wasn't in the zone, but I was able to get in the zone and focus this time.
My buds and my boys all got to climb. With my older boy Jake climbing to the anchors, about 60 feet high twice in a row. The younger one only about 30 feet up. But they had a good day. My two freinds did well, with the more experinced one pulling some nice thin 5.8 face moves.
Afterwards, we just keep saying. Yup can't walk that way guys, its closed.
NOT.

effn rent-a-cops! HA!

Great TR Gmburns. About halfway through, I noticed how well written it was, so it was cool to see that you want to be a writer. Dostoevsky is a favorite of mine, too.

Well, I'm injured now. (Which probably explains why I'm so psyched to be reading nicely written trip reports.) But I'll be sure to post when I start climbing again in a month or so.

But post up people. It doesn't have to be super exciting for an injured climber trying to get his fix.

Thanks, man. If you ever need a partner for the Gunks, I'm back from summer break in late August. I have no permanent partners here yet, so if your regular partners bail and you need someone, let me know.

Nice to hear someone else doesn't want the cubicle life. When you said you want to minimize your possessions, you hit the nail on the head. To many people own to much stuff to enjoy life to it's fullest.

One nice thing about relocating every few years, you sort your stuff and get rid of things that you kept "just in case."

Eman

Our Mistake

Today we tried a new climb at the gunks; Bloody Mary (upgraded to 5.7 in the new Dick). I took P1, a super nice crack, followed by a little traverse and then straight on up to a tree with rings and slings. My husband had the honor of P2, a 5.6 with two roofs, right on top of each other. P2 starts off with a 30 foot traverse to the left, then straight up under the first roof. Pull roof 1 and then traverse right to pull roof 2. Mitch did an amazing job leading the 2nd pitch and I really enjoy seconding it. So far so good. Great climb, loved by all. In fact, we wonder why it's not a 3 star classic.

Anyways, we rap off instead of doing P3 and walk over to another climb. I am racking up and I notice that we are missing 4 pieces of gear (cams). Turns out, Mitch never cleaned the anchor. Since it was a light turnout here today, I was certain the gear was still up there. So up Bloody Mary again, this time reversing the pitches; Mitch on P1 and me on P2.

Mitch flew up P1 (worried that we were going to have to rap in the dark) and I took the sharp end on P2). I have never had so much fun in my life. leading that pitch was so much more fun than following. I don't care what Dick says, it's a 3 star in my book. So Mitch's mistake turned out to be a great thing; I loved leading this climb.

So that's our weekend warrior report. We are up at the gunks every weekend, so I am sure there will be more to follow.

I am shrinking from my tallest height of 5' 3", why?

Mitch is 6' 2" and he also liked P2.

Yeah, this will be my first real purge. When I went off to grad school in Scotland a decade ago it wasn't the same. I hadn't started life yet. But now I've started, and it's time to redirect. I plan on keeping only the stuff that is important (family stuff, art, personal items of value) and things that would be dumb to get rid of (computer monitor, books, etc). I have a place to store the stuff (I think). The rest will either be sold or donated. It'll be a fresh start.

BTW - my blog on climbing.com starts up this month. I just have to send my first post, bio, and some pics to Luke and he'll get working on it at some point in the next couple of weeks. My style on climbing.com will be different than my style on my personal blog. I kind of knew I needed to shake things up a bit, but your comment above helped to push me over the edge. Thanks for that. I'll let you know when the first post is up.

Good luck with the new blog. Hope it does what ever you want it too. Mine, I plan on focusing on South East Asia. We'll see how it goes.

Well, if you don't use the tree then it's definitely a short person's route. Of course, Mitch might clearly be a better climber than me, too.

Ummm, we both "used" the tree, that is, we clipped into the tree and traversed underneath and out to the right. Stuck in a piece of pro during the traverse and reached over the lip.

I don't know...I just thought the climb was really really fun, with a great set of roofs. Once over the roof it was "happy" climbing all the way to the ledge.

Now I am looking for more of the same...any suggestions?

I've got a new TR up - Bonnie's and Birdland; the pump that keeps on giving

I'm hoping the next post will appear soon, but it won't be on my blog. I'll send that link around when I get to it.

I'm also hearing rumors of another TR, regarding a meth lab, coming soon. Can't wait for that.

Some kind of tease I'm sure...

Its over three pages on Word. I'm thinking of breaking it into 3 sections here. I'll try to post it up 1st thing Wed.

Aaah for what its worth... Fun for me and my wife but run of the mill for everyone else I guess.
We weekend warriored it at the usual crag. 2 hour drive and its raining all the way until we get there and magically the rain has gone.
I've got my eye on a project that I solo top roped after quite a few trys over 1 year of trying to lead it and failing to get past the 1st bolt.
My best lead is 5.10d max and this was a 5.8 that seemed like a 5.10 that has spanked many a hopeful. Top roped it again cos I had thought of a slightly different way near the top that would be easier. As it was, imagination had tricked me again and the only way thru the top was across a very thin face, well above the last bolt, onto good holds then mantle for glory.
The crux is at the first bolt tho with a deadpoint reach to a 2 finger pinch on a slight overhang.
I couldn't believe how scared I was on the thin face on moves I knew would go and had practised. Fighting my way thru it, elvis leg going, head cluttered with fear, I battled on...and that was still on top rope. No way could I lead it.
Anyway, sitting there I decided I had to try and lead it. So up.. bang.. crux move held then its up thru a bit of smearing and onto the thin face which was a piece of cake, finishing the mantle and wondering what the fuss was all about.
By then the rain came and it was hometime...Well, tent time anyway. We put up our super deluxe tent , etc for a comfortable tho cold night.

Next day back to the same spot. Full sun and the only place out of the howling wind made it perfect..And nobody else there..on a sunday..
This 5.8 that had grown to almost nightmarish proportion was now my warmup, so did that and showed my wife how to set up for solo toproping, and left her to it, wandering around the crag looking at other projects.
Sure enough she loved the soloing and evey now and then I'd check on her and she'll be talking away to herself, workin out moves, etc.
After that top roped a 5.11a and then it was onto a 5.10d to lead that I hadn't got past the 1st bolt of( yes there are quite a few like that in my resume). Super steep start on ok holds up to a not so good pocket, get feet up onto big pan and the rest is a stroll. Miss the pan, you end up a foot off the deck.
So started off as usual on that route....Hanging off the first bolt. . Then thought well we're here better have a go and went for it...grabbing at anything resembling a hold and just made it with an out of balance desperate grab for the what was luckily the best hold on the route. Was so looking gone I felt the rope tighten slightly as my wife thought I had actually fallen.
So not wanting to spoil the mood we cruised knowing going to send it next time. Not many climbs but great fun.

And yet another post, except this one is in a different location.

Climbing.com Reader Blogs

PS - I rail on Rumney a little bit in this post.

Thanks Gmburns, the blog is quite fun to read! I was thinking of starting one myself, really to keep friends and family in the loop once I hit the road for a few months of climbing. So reading other's stories gives me an idea on how to approach it.

Oops, only the bio is up at the moment. The post should be up soon.

hey, good luck with it. if you make it a public blog, then let me know and i'll follow along. also, if you have any questions, then let me know. i may be able to help a little bit.

A page per post. Gotta do the series thing. BTW - I just saw The Hangover, and this TR sounds like it'll be on par.

The guys head off to another area, and we want to finish up our climb and pack up for heading home. Jake, Mark, and Barb all get another run up the rope. Mark and Barb only going 10 feet up, but Jake does the full 40 feet. I swing the rope to the left, clip Barb into the belay anchor, and climb another easy climb. Probably 5.6/7 entrance move, with another 5.5/6 move ½ way up. Clean the anchor, rap off, pack up the gear, and we head to town for lunch.

Its getting a little late. We had said we would climb until noon, and its now 2:30. The kids have been chowing down in the car on granola bars and PB&J as we cleaned up the gear. But I’m hungry, so we drive through McD’s for a couple of burgers and chicken nuggets, get back to the trailer and start hitching up right away. Jake helps crank up the jacks, I hook her up, and Barb breaks everything down for heading out. One stop in town for gas and ice and we’re on our way.

Only problem is its 4:30 and it’s 5 hours of driving. Plus there’s got to be a dinner and potty break in the middle. And the quick food stops never are. Plus we’re bucking a stiff head wind. Normally, that shouldn’t slow me down too much, but its added a fair amount of drag on the trailer, so we aren’t making great time. We make Adelanto, with out too many issues. Except for that Ground Squirrel that ran out in front of me, got half way across the road clean, but then doubled back in front of me. I don’t think he made it. Also a couple short step hills made me wonder what was going on, as the Suburban felt completely gutless. In addition to the weight of the trailer and the head wind, apparently the AC sucks up the last of the horsepower.

As we sat in Del Taco in Adelanto, eating and resting, it seemed like a million firetrucks, police cars, and ambulances screamed by. We wondered what was happening, but we needn't wonder, we would find out soon enough. As we rolled out of the shopping center we could see lights flashing ahead. But traffic wasn’t backed up, so we kept rolling. As we got closer we saw what all the excitement was about, a house was absolutely engulfed in flames. Unfortunately, they had blocked off the road and turned us onto a side street. We tried to make our way around, but kept getting dead ended. Driving through a random neighborhood we asked a gentleman how to get to the 395 on the south side of the fire. He offered an easier solution, a cut across east to the 15 south that avoided the whole mess. As we had been trying to fight our way around the fire for over 20 minutes, we jumped on that. Two hours later, almost midnight, we were home, and in bed.

A crazy last minute, two long days climbing trip. But everyone had a good time.

Heh. That's a good lesson on how to teach the kids that meth labs in the house are BAD!

Still, sounds like you had a nice time, got a lot of climbs in, and still managed to let the kids have a good time. Does the Donny get mad at 2am when the trailer doesn't park correctly, or is he a "fuck it," kind of guy?

It's also good that you've got friends who are willing to climb with you and your family.

No weekend warrior this time.the rain is crushing my 5.10d aspirations. Unless mac Donald's has a grading system.

I gotta get there someday.

I also have to get out somehow. Rain, injuries, blah!

Shockley's in the Vulgarian "style"?

NOT...we did do Shockley's for the first time, alas, we were fully clothed.

Very nice climb up to the roof. A couple of interesting moves to get you into position to pull the roof. Then up and over. I was very intimidated because I had read that this roof was very height dependent. At 5'3" (almost) I figured I would have too much trouble and happily passed the lead to my 6 foot husband, Mitchal. In reality, I had no issue pulling the roof. Was it scary? Yes, but, it was completely doable. Next time, I will lead it.

In the Vulgarian "style"? Maybe...

Wrote this a bit ago and dont' think I ever posted it. Nothing exciting but a very fun climb..

Friday, June 26th 2009

Today, Gabe and I went to Eldo canyon.

^^^ Is different Gabe.

Just to clarify, since there aren't many Gabes that I know...

GO

Nice Greg! I enjoyed it much.

I had the same trouble as Jello on the second pitch of Baby. That roof is a bit cryptic.

And I had the same trouble as you on Bonnie's. I still haven't lead the first pitch actually. That roof is NO give away. Good on you for finishing the climb.

I didn't read the rest yet. But I'll come back to it.

Thanks for sharing. oh, and nice pics too btw!

-Boy

^^^ Is different Gabe.

Just to clarify, since there aren't many Gabes that I know...

GO

Weekend isn't over yet, but, I thought I would post our Saturday adventures. We are climbing tomorrow, so more to follow.

I marked my 52nd birthday this weekend by skydiving with my husband and kids.

What a KICK! It's an awesome feeling to jump out of an airplane at 14,500 feet. It was colder than I thought it would be, it did not feel like falling and I was way calmer than I expected. Once the chute is delpoyed you have a very gentle sensation of floating to earth.

My kids really loved it, it was so special to do it with them. Made my jump that much sweeter.

So much fun. I highly recommend it.

Awesome Gail!!! Congrats on another spin around the sun. What a great way to celebrate!

I've been getting my weekend warior on so if people don't mind...

I took my dad (68 yrs old) climibing for the first time this weekend. We went to Den Rock in MA, which happens to be where I climbed outside and rappelled for the first time!

I haven't been there in forever. It was a neat little trip down memory lane. I was also really happy to be sharing not only climbing, but the first place I ever climbed, with my Dad.

And he did great in his new balance sneeks!! We tried out the nice little 5.4 on the "mail wall". The cold shuts at the top of the ledge made for very easy set up. The weather just held out for us. And Dad didn't bat an eye the whole time.

It was a really simple but GREAT day for me sharing this part of my life with my Dad. I look forward for taking him on a real adventure in the future!!!

-Wyeth

I think it is a rewarding experience for sure! Its a funny role reversal too, (teaching your Dad anything). I'd encourage you to give it a try. I'm sure he would appreciate the experience even if "climbing" didn't REALLY happen.

How old is your Dad?