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Manufacturer: | Evolv | ||
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Description
Best Use:
Steep Sport Climbing, Sick Boulder Problems
Crazy Traditional Routes, & Competition
Excels:
Vertical to Overhanging Rock
Design:
Easy on and off slipper
Super-toe rand for toe hooking and scumming
Reinforcement trims for support and durability
Broad slingshot powers toes
Sensitive to let you feel the rock
Non-stretch synthetic leather
Steep Sport Climbing, Sick Boulder Problems
Crazy Traditional Routes, & Competition
Excels:
Vertical to Overhanging Rock
Design:
Easy on and off slipper
Super-toe rand for toe hooking and scumming
Reinforcement trims for support and durability
Broad slingshot powers toes
Sensitive to let you feel the rock
Non-stretch synthetic leather
8 Reviews
Write your own Review
Read all 8 reviews
review
Review by: ghisino, 2007-07-05
Really nice shoes!
I'm a big fan of downturned soft shoes and of slippers (even if I don't climb that many roofs or severe overhangs really), so this shoe obviously suits my taste.
It works very well if you have strong feet and if you use the proper foot technique for this kind of shoes : you won't really "edge" anything, but rather smear over footholds while "grabbing" them with your toes...almost like climbing barefoot. This is common to all downturned shoes and takes a bit to be mastered...
I also find that these particular shoes might take a bit to get accustomed to. In the very first place I wasn't totally happy and my footwork with them was quite floppy. After a couple climbing days in them I began to feel a lot happier and now (first pair resoled, second pair just bought) I really prefer them over my other slippers (la sportiva cobra)
On the other hand it could be disappointing for climbers who need a lot of support to consider a shoe "precise"...
Another handicap could come from the shape : it's not a very sharp-pointed shoe and could suffer a bit on small pockets...
Obviously, it really shines wherever you need pulling ability from your feet.
I feel the rubber over the toes is not only very useful for toe hooks but also helps to keep the fit tighter, making it more precise...or at least I had this feeling in the shop, when comparing it with the predators, which felt a bit looser fitting...
The heel has a very straightforward design but feels great : snug and rigid enough, probably best heel I've climbed along with lasportiva venoms...
they do stretch a bit but I would still consider them in the non-stretch category, you don't have to squeeze your feet into painful sizes knowing they'll bag out in two days on the rock...I'd say they'll just get 1/4 size bigger and a bit softer.
Anyway beware that the elastic band DOES stretch, as all elastic bands do...so, take your time pulling them carefully on your feet before saying you "can't get in".
If you order online, my advice would be to go half size below street shoes : I generally wear size 10 and I'm happy with 9.5 in the Agro.
As someone else said, they are very comfortable...I'd say that I couldn't get into a size small enough to be painful, without the help of a plastic bag!
Anyway in the very first days if you wear them a lot and sweat into them the lining could be a bit rough on your toes' skin...this problem seems to disappear completely after the first days.
At last the best thing : here in europe, they can be found pretty cheap
I'd give them 4 for the performance alone, I give 5 considering the price too
I'm a big fan of downturned soft shoes and of slippers (even if I don't climb that many roofs or severe overhangs really), so this shoe obviously suits my taste.
It works very well if you have strong feet and if you use the proper foot technique for this kind of shoes : you won't really "edge" anything, but rather smear over footholds while "grabbing" them with your toes...almost like climbing barefoot. This is common to all downturned shoes and takes a bit to be mastered...
I also find that these particular shoes might take a bit to get accustomed to. In the very first place I wasn't totally happy and my footwork with them was quite floppy. After a couple climbing days in them I began to feel a lot happier and now (first pair resoled, second pair just bought) I really prefer them over my other slippers (la sportiva cobra)
On the other hand it could be disappointing for climbers who need a lot of support to consider a shoe "precise"...
Another handicap could come from the shape : it's not a very sharp-pointed shoe and could suffer a bit on small pockets...
Obviously, it really shines wherever you need pulling ability from your feet.
I feel the rubber over the toes is not only very useful for toe hooks but also helps to keep the fit tighter, making it more precise...or at least I had this feeling in the shop, when comparing it with the predators, which felt a bit looser fitting...
The heel has a very straightforward design but feels great : snug and rigid enough, probably best heel I've climbed along with lasportiva venoms...
they do stretch a bit but I would still consider them in the non-stretch category, you don't have to squeeze your feet into painful sizes knowing they'll bag out in two days on the rock...I'd say they'll just get 1/4 size bigger and a bit softer.
Anyway beware that the elastic band DOES stretch, as all elastic bands do...so, take your time pulling them carefully on your feet before saying you "can't get in".
If you order online, my advice would be to go half size below street shoes : I generally wear size 10 and I'm happy with 9.5 in the Agro.
As someone else said, they are very comfortable...I'd say that I couldn't get into a size small enough to be painful, without the help of a plastic bag!
Anyway in the very first days if you wear them a lot and sweat into them the lining could be a bit rough on your toes' skin...this problem seems to disappear completely after the first days.
At last the best thing : here in europe, they can be found pretty cheap
I'd give them 4 for the performance alone, I give 5 considering the price too
Great shoe.
Review by: mangiacapra, 2007-04-28
As previously mentioned, it's limited in it's capabilities. Strictly designed for bouldering and/or sport routes, it clings to your feet and gives you the ultimate in grip, but it's a bit too arched and small for anything more serious. I'm on my second pair and I can tell you first hand that I can toe onto the smallest of cracks, this shoe turns anything into a foothold. If you're a boulderer and have been looking for a slipper that can perform as good as any more expensive shoe, this is the shoe for you.
Review
Review by: musicman1586, 2006-08-27
Great shoe for what their intended for. Obviously not an all-around shoe, and if you grade it as such then you are placing an unfair expectation on it. That said, this is one of the most comfortable down-turned shoes I've ever worn. Just got back from a trip to Hueco with them, and I used them for pretty much everything I got on out there, even if they weren't necessary. I can definitely wear them for a good while, and the fit and performance is just as good as other comparable shoes without the pain. I could wear them for probably...20 min. at a time before I have to take them off. Heel hooks are good as well, if you pull too hard they will pop off, but mine stayed pretty much in place, just a little shifting even on heel hook intensive roof problems. I got them in my street size, which I highly recommend not to go smaller.
Year-long update: So I used my Argos for quite a while when I got them, then I basically only trad climbed for about a year, and then the past 4 months of so I've been bouldering alot more and want to offer my opinion now that I have alot more experience on various rock, using various shoes, etc. When sized as I have them sized (street shoe size, as Evolv suggests) the Argos are a great introduction to downturned shoes I think. They definitely aren't the most extreme on the market, but I personally prefer them most the time. The lining makes them feel good on the feet, and the toe box is down-turned, but not to the extreme, so I can pull with my feet really well but at the same time I climb lots of vertical stuff in them as well, in fact they work just as well for straight vertical (one of my favorite mediums) to slightly overhanging as they do for cave climbing. For up to V5-6 and 5.12s so far I really haven't needed anything else, I've been using the venoms because I got a good deal on them and I know I'll have shoes to resole sooner than later. So in summation of the good points, its a good vertical to overhanging shoe for those just getting into such types of shoes, it has a good curve to the toes to enable you to grab and pull with your feet, but they are damn comfortable as well, in route setting sessions in the gym I can leave them on for 20 min. or even more at times and only somewhat be bothered when I take them off.
So all the goods being said, what cons can I come up with? Well as I said, its not the most extreme down-turned shoe on the market (once again, sized to your street shoe size) I've worn or tried out lots of others, and there are definitely shoes out there that are more down-turned and I guess in a sense more precise (although personally I'm beginning to the think that the lack of pain is more of an aid to me than more "precise" shoes). Also the heel on real serious heel hooks does come over pretty easily, its one thing to place it and use it as a balance point, but when you actually have to pull with your heel to stay on, the heel does pop. That being said, I have an extremely narrow foot and heel, so that could be the problem. The other con I could point out is that these shoes are very soft, which some people have said is a problem for micro-edging, I've never found a problem edging in these, but it does take more toe strength since you don't have much of a midsole to help you out, on the flip side, they also smear pretty well, which is a rarity for DT shoes.
So in conclusion, the Argos have become some of my most favorite all around sport and bouldering shoes. They can climb vertical faces all the way to caves, they can edge, pull, smear, toe hook with ease, and work fine for some types of heel hooks. Hell, I've even done some easy 5.8 hand cracks in them. I know that their is higher-performance shoes on the market, but in all honesty I don't think I've surpassed these yet and they for sure can climb much harder than V6 or 5.12, I'm just not there yet, but it certainly hasn't been the shoes that have hindered me. So to anyone thinking about buying these, I would say their more than worth it for the price, even if you have some better shoes, save it for the crucial sends and use these for your gym shoes. Their a great way to start learning how to pull with your feet, but you'll also still be able to climb non-overhanging faces and problems, and finally to top it all off, they've been durable as hell for me, I used them for probably 3 months before my trad hiatus, and then I've been using them for the past 4 months with ALOT (30 hrs/week) of time spent in the gym resetting all the routes in our 8,500 sq ft gym, along with time spent out on course granite and steep polished limestone. A great all-around sport and bouldering shoe.
Year-long update: So I used my Argos for quite a while when I got them, then I basically only trad climbed for about a year, and then the past 4 months of so I've been bouldering alot more and want to offer my opinion now that I have alot more experience on various rock, using various shoes, etc. When sized as I have them sized (street shoe size, as Evolv suggests) the Argos are a great introduction to downturned shoes I think. They definitely aren't the most extreme on the market, but I personally prefer them most the time. The lining makes them feel good on the feet, and the toe box is down-turned, but not to the extreme, so I can pull with my feet really well but at the same time I climb lots of vertical stuff in them as well, in fact they work just as well for straight vertical (one of my favorite mediums) to slightly overhanging as they do for cave climbing. For up to V5-6 and 5.12s so far I really haven't needed anything else, I've been using the venoms because I got a good deal on them and I know I'll have shoes to resole sooner than later. So in summation of the good points, its a good vertical to overhanging shoe for those just getting into such types of shoes, it has a good curve to the toes to enable you to grab and pull with your feet, but they are damn comfortable as well, in route setting sessions in the gym I can leave them on for 20 min. or even more at times and only somewhat be bothered when I take them off.
So all the goods being said, what cons can I come up with? Well as I said, its not the most extreme down-turned shoe on the market (once again, sized to your street shoe size) I've worn or tried out lots of others, and there are definitely shoes out there that are more down-turned and I guess in a sense more precise (although personally I'm beginning to the think that the lack of pain is more of an aid to me than more "precise" shoes). Also the heel on real serious heel hooks does come over pretty easily, its one thing to place it and use it as a balance point, but when you actually have to pull with your heel to stay on, the heel does pop. That being said, I have an extremely narrow foot and heel, so that could be the problem. The other con I could point out is that these shoes are very soft, which some people have said is a problem for micro-edging, I've never found a problem edging in these, but it does take more toe strength since you don't have much of a midsole to help you out, on the flip side, they also smear pretty well, which is a rarity for DT shoes.
So in conclusion, the Argos have become some of my most favorite all around sport and bouldering shoes. They can climb vertical faces all the way to caves, they can edge, pull, smear, toe hook with ease, and work fine for some types of heel hooks. Hell, I've even done some easy 5.8 hand cracks in them. I know that their is higher-performance shoes on the market, but in all honesty I don't think I've surpassed these yet and they for sure can climb much harder than V6 or 5.12, I'm just not there yet, but it certainly hasn't been the shoes that have hindered me. So to anyone thinking about buying these, I would say their more than worth it for the price, even if you have some better shoes, save it for the crucial sends and use these for your gym shoes. Their a great way to start learning how to pull with your feet, but you'll also still be able to climb non-overhanging faces and problems, and finally to top it all off, they've been durable as hell for me, I used them for probably 3 months before my trad hiatus, and then I've been using them for the past 4 months with ALOT (30 hrs/week) of time spent in the gym resetting all the routes in our 8,500 sq ft gym, along with time spent out on course granite and steep polished limestone. A great all-around sport and bouldering shoe.
Review
Review by: rainontin, 2006-06-02
Same aggressive last and stellar performance as the Predator, only ensconced in rubber and sans velcro. Excellent construction, great fit, and covered in so much rubber you could smear any feature from any angle. The shoe is very secure, espicially for a slipper, and has yet to come off while climbing, even on the most vicious heel hooks. It is a little bit softer than the Predator or Talon, so you might find it tiresome to stand on little nubbins at first, but your toes will soon get used to it. EDIT: even after a few months of constant usage the rubber over the toes still causes the shoe to fit oddly over my index toe and is somewhat of a discomfort. The rubber is not very sticky, though it is quite durable. The softness of the shoe is really it's weakness. 3.5
Review
Review by: brad84, 2006-02-06
Now that I have been climbing in these shoes for a few months I feel compelled to write a review. These have quickly become my favorite shoes for a number of reasons. Their rubber is definately stickier than 5.10- I noticed this immediately. The fit is phenomenal, and allows me to wear a very tight shoe for an extended period of time w/o the urge to tear them from my feet. I have not had a problem with the heel cup pulling off- they've stayed on perfect every time, even on heel intensive problems. The micromicro fuzz lining is an added bonus. The Agro is a very precise shoe; combined with the stickiest of rubber they have, I feel like I can edge (and pull) on the worst of footholds.
If you buy these shoes, you will get the added pleasure of dealing with some of the best customer service you can imagine.
If you buy these shoes, you will get the added pleasure of dealing with some of the best customer service you can imagine.