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Optimus Prime

Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20 out of 5
Item Details | Reviews (10)
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Optimus Prime
Manufacturer: Evolv

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Description

The Optimus Prime Climbing Shoe is the fourth installment in the Sharma Signature Series of shoes. Who else better to design a climbing shoe than one of the strongest, most well acclaimed climbers in the world. Designed on a downcamberd last, the Optimus Prime has a deeper fitting heel and much stiffer heel cup than the Optimus.

Designed on a completely different last than any other climbing shoes, the Optimus Prime offers a symetric toe box (rounded toe box). It also has the oval grid pattern rand for added protection and for improved toe hooking while the hook-and-loop fastener maintains the shape for a tight fit.

*PROFILE semi symmetrical down cambered (CS1 last) *SOLE 4.2 mm TRAX® XT-5 high friction rubber *RAND 2.2mm TRAX® duro-rand *UPPER perforated elastic Synthratek synthetic upper with mositure wicking qualities *LINING Cotton fiber lining in heel cup and toe box *MIDSOLE MPX-1: 1.3mm stiff poly-dynamic full-length midsole

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Editors Review

Evolv Optimus Prime and Pontas

Evolv Optimus Prime and Pontas Vegastradguy on EVOLV's new kicks -- a two-for-one review.

Views: 28550 | Submitted by vegastradguy on 2008-11-17

10 Reviews

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Ouch at first then awesome 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: aliasptr, 2012-08-10


These shoes hurt my feet a ton in the beginning but they stretched out and I learned how to best use them I love them for steep and overhung climbing.

the 'Go to' Shoes 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: bowldr42, 2012-04-17


These are a big chunk of rubber, with straps. When you first get them they feel rigid and bulky, slip off holds, and probably cramp your toes into oblivion, but as they stretch and work in the rubber they get softer and much more sensitive.

I'm 9.5 street
9 optimus prime
8 pontas

The heel starts literally perfect, but gets baggier within a couple months yet still performs fine. Once the rubber and the rest of the shoe is worked in you get great feel on the rock or plastic and you can easily take these with you for any route. Of course the more overhung the better and I particularily enjoy the feel on roof and near roof footwork. Outside edging starts to suffer once they get softer, but that's not what you need them for anyway. .

Give them a good 20+ hours to break in enough for the rubber, and start to feel how great they really are.

Best shoes i've owned so far 5 out of 5 stars

Review by: benbro, 2011-11-16


I am on my second pair of these after having the first ones resoled once. These are a fantastic shoe, size them .5 sizes bigger than the pontas/other mid-performance evolv shoes. Even at that size the breaking is pretty painful (I forgot how painful it was and was recently reminded when I purchased a new pair!) However, after a few sessions or 6-8 hours of wear they should start to feel perfect. They edge like a and work great for hard micro foot bouldering and steep climbing, and even do ok on off-vertical slabs once they are broken in. From granite to sandstone to limestone, these shoes really seem to work on anything vertical to very steep.

Great shoe!! 4 out of 5 stars

Review by: EastSideEric, 2009-09-24


I really liked this shoe for everything from bouldering to steep trad routes. Awesome edging and not to painful on slabier routes. All this said... I've only had these shoes for about a month and a half, climbing most days, and i am now edging on the tips of my bare big toes. So that being the case i feel that for the price, these shoes should be a lot more durable.

Sizing is wierd 3 out of 5 stars

Review by: bobbj22, 2009-06-08


I bought a pair a few days ago and they felt a little tight but bearable. I wear a US 9.5 street shoe and my acopa spectres were 10.5. These I bought in a 9.5 since the 9 was way too tight. I got on the crag and my feet were absolutely killing me halfway up my first route. I anchored into a bolt and had my partner switch them out for the spectres. Worn once with unbearable pain but had great edging..look for these on ebay.

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