Routes : Australasia : Australia : Victoria : Arapiles : The Bluffs : Bluff Major : Despatched

Despatched - 5.11d

Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)

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First Ascent:

Type of Climb:

Rock

Safety Rating:

Pitches:

Protection:

Standard Rack

Length :

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	5.11d
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Description:

I used, in order, the following: quickdraw (first bolt), #1 camalot w/ draw, 0.5 camalot w/ sling, quickdraw (second bolt), 0.4 camalot no draw, 0.3 camalot no draw, #3 BD microstopper (rp would work here) w/ draw, draw for fixed wire (#6 BD stopper) - back it up with a green alien and draw, and, finally a #10 BD stopper w/ draw. Amazing three star line on the Bluffs - right of Thundercrack. Clip bolt and perform a super cool lieback move by reaching up and pinching a fin over your head, pull right to stance, right again and up (difficult clip). Continue up overhanging rock to a pair of big horizontals - plug cams in and run it out up less-steep rock, and RP placement. Step right to pseudo-rest stance and good gear (fixed wire). Suss out the crux traverse (hint: stay low)... the holds all lean the wrong way, but a desparate move will get you to a big, positive hold. Continue right to ledge and place pro for your second, then step down and right to a huge hold and hanging belay from bolts. WHEW!!!

Submitted by: jsj42 on 2004-04-08
Views: 531
Route ID: 50805

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