Westwand - 5.11c

Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
R
1
two rings, knotted slings
150
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Description:
climb easy right ascending crack on west face to indistinct crack/corner/overhang. one can place knotted slings. Climb corner to good holds and ring at about 60 ft. Climb up 10 ft, and go 10 ft right to sloping ledge/groove (crux pulling in). Above this, another ring and a few stiff moves into a chimney. Follow chimney without gear 50 ft to summit. nearly unbelievable this was done in 1939. The germans used "unterstuzung" (human ladders), but the crux probably couldn't be climbed this way--it is 20 ft away from the ring-75 ft up the cliff.Descent Options:
rappel, or traverse to nearby dome and climb alterweg to its summit.
Submitted by: stevecurtis on 2011-07-13
Views: 255
Route ID: 109349
1 Ascent Recorded
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.11c |
Safety Rating | R |
Exposure | ![]() |
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This route is rated about 10B in the guide. Done in 1939???
We did this route when it was moist. In this condition, it was at least 11 C R. Dry, it could be 11 B. This one was a rude shock for our first day.
Added: 2011-07-13