Boy-Roca - 5.10a
Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
Premier Sponsor:
|
Rock
Bolts
|
|
||||||||||||||
Description:
The climb leading up the elephant's nose. Start either at the base or traverse in from the right. it doesn't matter which way you choose, they're both about 5.4 (X). By starting from the base I placed a nut at about 5 meters, but the rock seemed a little loose there, so I wouldn't count on it holding a fall. After that you've got to run it out to the belay (about 35 meters). By traversing in from the right, there's no way of placing any pro. The belay consists of three rings and is located at the beginning of the pillar you're about to climb. for orientation, it's a few meters right of a crack leading up left. the last few meters to the belay get a little steeper. keep your eyes open, in my opinion finding the first belay was the most demanding part of the climb. The second pitch gets steeper and offers 30 meters of nice 5.6 climbing protected by two good bolts. The third one is the crux pitch. It offers wonderful steep climbing on good holds. There are so much bolts you could climb it A0, but not all of them are still good enough to hold a fall. If you want to climb it A0, take some small nuts or some rivethangers with you as some bolts don't have hangers any more. But, by the way, by climbing it A0, you would miss the best part of the route. The fourth pitch offers some nice 5.5 climbing on big pebbles. It's very exposed for its grade. There is also one bolts. Use the first belay (the one with some old bolts on it) just for clipping your draw, there's a better one just 5-10 meters above. The last pitch offers some nice 5.4 climbing to the summit. There are no bolts, but you can sling some big sandsone pebbles using a 1,20 meter sling. when you've made the summit, take the time to go to the main summit, the view over montserrat is great. You can descend it by foot climbing down the easy chimney separating the main summit and the elephant's head. If you got a 60 meters rope, you can also rappel the route. It's about 30 meters from one belay to the other. from the first belay you've got to hold right into a couloir. from there it's only 2-3 minutes scramble to your you started. it would be useful, if someone installed a maillon rapide on the top, so you don't need to come back to fetch your biner or leave a sling. A must-do if you're in montserrat
Submitted by: pmw on 2006-04-29
Views: 405
Route ID: 76175
