Schafbergkante 5b+ - 5.8

Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Rock (Sport)
PG13
12
Some bolts, bring lots of slings and a few nuts / smaller friends.
1350
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Description:
Classic arete climb on limestone. Mostly mellow, but the crux pitch felt pretty hard for a 5b+... There are harder alternatives (5c+ to 6a+) on three pitches (see topo). The first one was ok. The second one would have required a dicey traverse, and the third one some moves on loose holds before you can clip the first bolt.Descent Options:
Continue arete to peak, downclimb or short rap. We used the "2. Ausfluchtmöglichkeit" (emergency exit): follow the short visible trail down from a notch, do a 60m rap (double ropes) from good anchor. Cross over to the hiking trail from there.
Submitted by: pro_alien on 2007-06-18
Views: 1999
Route ID: 86558
2 Ascents Recorded
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
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Schafbergkante
Great ridge climb with a superb view. Definitely recommended.
Added: 2009-05-13
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | |
Safety Rating | PG13 |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
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climbing with a sheepish soundtrack - bah bah !
The name "Schafberg" (sheep mountain) is there for a reason...
Despite the easyish grade, this route should not be underestimated - some route finding skills required. We passed on the second and third pitches of the harder alternative, as the second one starts out with a dicey traverse, and the third one is a bit loose.
Despite the easyish grade, this route should not be underestimated - some route finding skills required. We passed on the second and third pitches of the harder alternative, as the second one starts out with a dicey traverse, and the third one is a bit loose.
Added: 2007-06-18