Hörnligrat (NE-ridge) - AD

The was the longest climbing day I have been a part of. We were planning for the normal 8-10 hours of climbing, but we did not reach the summit until 1130 and that meant a long descent still awaited us. A word to all, turn around at 1000 even if you have not been to the summit if you do not want to descend in the dark. The problem is you have lost your best resource, the guides. If you are climbing without a guide they will not be around if you have not been to the summit by 1000. They are on their way down and you should turn around and follow them.
Overall the trip was great. I now know my limit and what I am willing to risk. There is protection in all the places you need it, but you must move fast and safely. On the ropes up high there will be people coming down them while you are trying to go up, so move quickly. I will probably not climb the Matterhorn again. If I do, I know I must move quickly and stay on route.

Watching a young guy fall 500m to his death on the West Face on the way up put a big damper on what would have otherwise been an incredible day...