Corkscrew - 5.8 A0

Route sequence (left to right): 98
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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D. Vockeroth, H. Fuhrer & B. Greenwood, 1967
Rock (Trad)
Aid
G
7
Small set of nuts, micro cams up to #3, double 1 and 2 nice but not needed
770
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Description:
This was an early attempt up the corner that Marriage Rites (great route) climbs. This route is a great route for route finding on safer trad climbing on yam with good rock through out.Descent Options:
Walk off to the east
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2009-07-05
Last Modified: 2013-08-12
Views: 1190
Route ID: 100679
2 Ascents Recorded
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Corkscrew
With Mark B. Ok route. Somewhere, someone said it was the best on Yam? They were stoned. We combined 1-2 and 3-4 with a 70m rope, no simul climbing needed. Stay low when in question on that pitch three traverse. Need a 2" and 4" for the station at the top of 4. Tons of pins, no need for a lot of gear. That is a hard 5.12 in my book, we aided it. Easy just to yank on draws and step in a shoulder length sling. Hard to combine those last two pitches with a single rope, way too much zig zaging.
Added: 2009-07-06
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 V0 WI1 A0 M1 F |
Safety Rating | G |
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Good route
This is a good route and for those shorter days in which you want a bit longer than the east side but harder and more intresting than the west look no farther, my partner and I with a 70m rope and a bit heavier rack (my partner suggested bringing a #4) were able to do it in 5 pitchs, the top of the route has some very good face climbing with most of the pro being pins in which you can back them up with micro cams. The bolt lader does go at 12a and when you are on the lader thats mostly retro'd (2009) aside from 2 middle bolts think about freeing it with that as your pro.
Added: 2009-07-05