Dreambed - 5.11b

needs a new partner. He did everything short of haul my rear up this route (and he tried that once!). The old goat was feeling wormy to say the least. Lack of meds, legal and illegal. I see he did pre-empt the lambasting I was going to give him on getting psyched out on the start of pitch 4 so I will lay off. Like the Dr. said, soft for sure, all the pitches maybe a whole grade off. The crux might even be on the 5.10c vs the 10d's or 11b, but then if I were leading pitch 2, I probably would have made a fine aid climber that day. Several pretty cool movements on decent rock. The arete out right move on pitch 2, moves underneath the roof of pitch 4 and the beautiful, but physical, finger lock on pitch 6. As the Dr. stated, placing a cam here will interfer with the hold. First and last pitches are cute 5.9 leads for the belay slave. (combine the last two pitches for sure).

This is an ok route that I found was soft for the grade, I thought it was closer to 11a rather than b. I did this route with the Old Goat Man in which beyond his senility did well. This route is very low stress but lacks that certin Yam style climbing that you are looking for. There is no real point on this route that I thought there was any question of climbing aside from stepping off the belay on the 4th pitch just off the climbing line in which the OGM was able to set me stright. I never placed any micro cams on the 6th pitch because they would have taken away from the finger lock or you would be resting on it as well.

I found that a single set will do you fine on this route however my partner thinks you can get away without the #3. I found that it was nice to have but you could easly get away without bringing it. I did not find this route as engaging as I thought and was a bit disappointed with it.

We just climbed Girls Lie on EEOR a few days before and I found that route a much better route if your looking for safe clean fun that this route sells.

Great climbing! The crux pitch is fairly sustained with only a couple of good stemming rests. Beware of a flash pump on a hot day! D= All other pitches are also memorable and overall the route has some of the best rock quality I have seen on Yam.