Necromancer - 5.10a

Route sequence (left to right): 31
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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G. Homer & J. Jones, 1971
Rock (Trad)
G
11
Double rack to #3 take a #4 and some micro cams, set of nuts
1350
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Description:
A excellent climb in the moderate grades being quite sustained with mainly good belay stances however as with all routes on this wall it does have some broken ground, a bit of loose rock and ledges with loose rock as well. This is a fine route that is like Kahl wall with good pro and the drill hasn't made it to this route yet.Descent Options:
Walk off, rapping is epic if you dont have doubles and still troublesome with.
Submitted by: lovesclimbing on 2009-06-11
Last Modified: 2013-08-14
Views: 1199
Route ID: 100208
2 Ascents Recorded
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Necromancer
Ok route, don't see the sustained portions mentioned in the book or on this site, but then it is Yam I guess. I led the three 5.10a pitches and the 5.9. All fairly tame. THe first 5.10a pitch is the crux of the climb. Must climb bad steep rock, run out from the belay, for the first several meters. Eases up once you get on the good protectable slab, of course. The next 5.10a is right above this pitch, a real fun wide stem box move, again run out, gets you to some manky pitons, then a fun airy traverse over the big roof with some more manky pitons. The 5.8 traverse back the other direction right after this pitch is not for the weak of heart 5.8 leaders. Quite exposed and a bit run out from piton to piton with little pro. The 5.9 after that seems soft. The final 5.10 is fun for the first 10m or so, but then pretty uneventful from there. Great day with Steve F.
Added: 2009-06-26
Ratings | |
---|---|
Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
Rock Quality | ![]() |
Scenery | ![]() |
Fun Factor | ![]() |
Great CLimb
This is a very good climb that is sustained through out aside from the broken bits, dont take the 5.7 grade on the lower pitchs to heart as well as with a 70m rope you can combine the bottom 6 pitchs into 3 with the frist pitch being a rope strecher.
Added: 2009-06-11