Smeagol - 5.9

Pretty much the description that clews wrote... the first pitch made me wonder if it was worth going up there... but the second was fun corner work... and the third was airy chimney and off-width goodness!

We had a very small window for weather that day. Forecasted snow in the morning followed by a couple hours of sun then snow in the early afternoon.

I've always wanted to climb this route but never felt like hiking all the way up for 3 pitches but figured since we only had a couple of hours of weather it was perfect.

The first pitch was crap. A big pile of choss and wasn't to inspiring but the next two were second to none!

Unlike a previous post, I was happy I brought up a couple smaller cams to help protect the second pitch... definitely not necessary but was nice to have.

Peter, Jo and I had driven up to Edith Cavell the night before, starred at the abyss (fog/rain shrouded mountain) and turned around back for Canmore. At least we got to see a bear and her cubs for our effort. Back at home at 3:AM, up at 9 or 10:AM, we looked for an easy, non-committing day out and Smeagol fit the bill.

hardest route I've ever done on Yam. 2nd pitch is great fun, and 3rd is pumpy overhung!! really fun short multipitch with interesting move. jamming, stemming, sidepull.... I wanna climb this route again

A good route, but wet and cold on the last pitch, frozen fingers led me to a slip but very good climbing with the 2nd pitch and thrid pitch makeing up the intrest