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This is perhaps the ultimate alpine face in North America, with 1500' meters of difficult mixed and aid climbing on poor rock with an unforgiving microclimate and rapidly changing conditions with bad rockfall potential. There are only two established routes, both unrepeated. One by the legendary Muggs Stump with J. Logan and the other by the outstanding Dick Cheesmond and T. Dick. Rated UIAA VI, and the probably the ultimate Canadian 5.9 A2 sandbags (read: 5.11+, A4, DFU), the routes took 4 and 3 bivvies, respectively.
Despite attempts by some of the worlds best modern climbers this face has shut down all comers for more than twenty years.
Update- Barry Blanchard, Eric Dumerac and Philippe Pellet have climbed a new route over three days on the Emperor Face on October 23-25 2002. Infinite Patience - 2200 Meters VI WI5 M5 5.9. Bravo.
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