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Sunshine - 5.11a
Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock
G
11
Double rack to #5 Camalot with 2 extra #4 camalots
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Description:
Located on the north face of Snowpatch. One of the best long trad routes on the continent.Descent Options:
Rap the route. Beware rope eating cracks.
Submitted by: ulysse on 2004-05-24
Last Modified: 2009-09-21
Views: 1787
Route ID: 53138
Most Recent Photos
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3 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
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Onsight ascent by:
Pitch after pitch of perfect splitters!
See Atkinson/Piche guide for detailed beta. I found pitches 1 and 3 to be easier than the GB says, more like .10- and with short cruxes. You can leave your #5 camalots at the top of pitch 2 and get them on the way down. They are not needed higher up. I recommend belaying just below the crux roof on p7, otherwise the leader could splat on the low-angled slab if they whip. This makes it a 10m pitch but it works best that way. Pitch 8 is probably undergraded at 5.9 in the GB. It's more like 5.10b. There are two gear belays: at the top of p6 and at the top of p10 (small-medium cams/nuts). The rest are fixed bolt anchors that are used for rapping the route. For p10 I would bring four #4 camalots. Kneepads are nice for the p2 OW and also for all the semi-hanging belays.
Added: 2009-08-05
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
With Hal
Great route....classic offwidth, nice overhang pulls.
Added: 2007-11-14
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Ascent Note
An excellent climb. The OW could use a #5 and #6 camalot, though there is a chockstone that you can sling and just run it out if you don't want to haul those boats up the route.
Added: 2006-08-08
