The Point
About The Point:
Likely the highest quality piece of rock on Southern Cape Breton island. An easy approach, all day sun, absence of black flies, free wilderness camping and best of all, a most stunning view of the Atlantic Ocean make this a weekend bouldering and climbing destination. With something for everyone, except perhaps those looking for 60 meter testpeices, Lorraine Head offers Granite bouldering and short but powerful routs to fit all grades and gear types. Rarely is there a crag that offers 5.8 gear routs next to 5.12 sport routs with such a view and ease of access. |
Approach: | Turn at Little Lorraine/Main A Dieu rd. Drive 700 mters and take first right hand gravel road (West shore road). Drive to end of road (1 km) and park in front of yellow and brown cabin near Parks Canada sign taking care not to block cabin entrance. Trail head is past concrete barriers. |
Approach Time: | 35 min, from Lorraine, or 50 from Light house point |
Latitude, Longitude: | 45.91935, -59.91941 |
Access Issues: | |
Rock Type: | Granite |
Type of Climbing: | Bouldering |
Sun Aspect: | All Day Sun |
Routes
Sequence![]() |
Rating | Route | Difficulty | Ascents |
---|---|---|---|---|
0 |
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Post-coital Moisture | 5.10c | 1 |
0 |
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Friends Don’t let Friends Climb Chimneys | 5.5 | 0 |
0 |
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Ginger Barbarians | 5.10b | 0 |
0 |
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Honey Moon Sweet | 5.10c | 1 |
0 |
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Left Corner | 5.8 | 0 |
0 |
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Lorraine’s Luxury Lair | 5.11a | 0 |
0 |
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Post Anal Tail | 5.11d | 1 |
0 |
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Punters Corner | 5.8 | 1 |
0 |
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Room with a view (Orr, 2014) | 5.10b | 1 |
0 |
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RP Dreaming | 5.4 | 0 |
0 |
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Sting in the Tail | 5.11b | 1 |
0 |
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The Prow | 5.9 | 1 |
0 |
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Tribal Island Parasites | 5.12c | 0 |
0 |
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Zombie Moose | 5.11b | 0 |
1 |
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Battle Cry | V4 | 0 |
1 |
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Green Squall | V3 | 0 |
1 |
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Happiness (SDS) | V5 | 0 |
1 |
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Jimmy Can't Dance | V0 | 0 |
1 |
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Keep Lien | V1 | 0 |
1 |
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Nod At The Moment (SDS) | V5 | 0 |
1 |
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Run Together | V2 | 0 |
1 |
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Shaun's alliby (SDS) | V2 | 0 |
1 |
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Sunshine In A Bag | V3 | 0 |
1 |
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Sure Shot (SDS) | V4 | 0 |
1 |
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The Sodamizer (SDS) | V4 | 0 |
1 |
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Wish U Were Here | V1 | 0 |