Adagio - 5.8

Route sequence (left to right): 8
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
1959
Rock (Trad)
Good
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Description:
Four pitches: 5.5 (or a 5.8 variation), 5.6, 5.6, 5.8. First climbed in 1959, this is a stiff climb for the grade. First pitch climbs up to the right of a towering block to the a ledge with a small birch (5.5), the 5.8 variation is the crack system on the left of this towering block. Two traverse pitches now. 20m right to a 2 pin anchor (back it up with wires), another traversing pitch up into the roof, and then along the roof right to a ledge. Belay on the ledge for the final pitch: short but hard. There is a walk-off, and apparently one can rap with two 60m ropes.
Submitted by: tallnik on 2006-04-05
Last Modified: 2012-01-23
Views: 1112
Route ID: 75711
3 Ascents Recorded
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
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No Comment
A real classic. The first pitch variant (Persistance) is officially graded 5.7 but it felt more like 5.8 - it was the hardest pitch on the route anyhow. We combined pitch 2 and 3 into one: rope drag ensued, but not too bad. Those 2 traverse pitches are pure beauties: 5.6 and 5.6 with tons of exposure! Exit pitch is short, exposed, intense and well protected with small pro: 5.7 if you are tall, 5.8 for short people.
I can confirm: Single rap off two 60m ropes from the summit bolts: free hanging most of the way down...
Update: All belay stations are now well equipped with 2 bolts each. The climb itself though is 100% trad.
I can confirm: Single rap off two 60m ropes from the summit bolts: free hanging most of the way down...
Update: All belay stations are now well equipped with 2 bolts each. The climb itself though is 100% trad.
Added: 2010-09-20
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Good shit. The first pitch felt mad hard and exposed at the crux. Followed the sun to the top, got cold, finished the climb and walked off. I freaked on the crux of the climb, and grabbed the pro. It was the only piece (smallest Rock Emp cam) on the final pitch, with an anchor I didn't like below.
Witnessed by: Jojo Stansfield
Added: 2006-04-02
Added: 2006-04-02
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Extremely relaxing and enjoyable climb.
Witnessed by: rockaholic
Added: 2002-08-06
Added: 2002-08-06