Wagon Caves
Climbing Sections:
- Beach, The (8)
- Caves Wall (2)
- Corners, The (1)
- Newt Wall (4)
- Talking Tower (1)
About Wagon Caves:
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This is a sensitive site. Tread softly and leave the drill at home. New voluntary bolting ban. Sling trees and boulders only. Current bolts will reamain. It is in an ABSOLUTELY beautiful area, worth going to for the culture (there are petroglyphics, mortar stones, and caves), scenery (in the spring the wildflowers are AMAZING), and more. The problem is, however, is that it just isn't developed. (NEW NOTE 6/05: DON'T ADD NEW BOLTS. THERE IS A VOLUNTARY BOLTING BAN. SENSITIVE NATIVE INDIAN SITE. SLING TREES OR BOULDERS. Current anchors will stay put.). WHAT is nice is that the bolts that ARE established are painted, which makes me think that there's a movement to leave this area natural - but there are many nice looking FA's looking for someone to lead them.
If you want to climb some routes, you'll want to bring long slings. This is a huge area of sandstone outcroppings and cliffs. Some of the rocks are pretty featureless. However, others have nice pockets and huecos that make the vertical climbing less difficult than one would think. Due to the slightly out of the way nature of the area, the possibilities for development are immense. It could also develop into a premier bouldering area. It is easy driving distance from Monterey, Salinas, and Santa Cruz. The setting is absolutely gorgeous-just outside the boundary of Fort Hunter Liggett Military Reservation in the Los Padres National Forrest. |
| Nearest town or city: | King City |
| Directions: | From the north, exit at Jolon Rd.(King City)and go south 18 miles. From the south exit at Jolon Rd.(Bradley)and go north 22 miles.This gets you to Mission Rd.(Jolon Rd. starts in Bradley and runs north past the military base and comes back to 101 at King City. So don't get the two exits confused!) Here is the entrance to the Military base. Make sure you have the proper paperwork for your car, etc. as we all know how nitpicky the military has to be these days. (You will be driving across the base to get to the climbing area). You will take Mission Rd. to Del Venturi Rd. (turn left) and then to Milpitas Rd.(turn right). About 12 miles after leaving Mission Rd. you will cross a creek (don't try it if the water is high after a storm). A couple of miles later you will leave the military base and the Wagon Caves will be on your left. Camping is available on unimproved areas a bit further down the road. |
| Latitude, Longitude: | |
| Access Issues: | |
| Camping: | Yes |
| When to Climb: | |
| Quantity of Climbs: | Month |
Forum Discussions (1 posts)
| Subject | Author | Replies | Last Post | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
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General question - The Beach | mrfantastic | 2 | Mar 16 2008, 3:34 AM |
