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Potrero John Slab

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Climbing Sections:

About Potrero John Slab:

A half mile beyond the Sespe Wall is a group of rock slabs on the south side of the road. The eighty-foot-high blank wall at the far left is Potero John Wall. To the right and uphill a bit is a group of large triangular slabs, collectively known as The Fortress. There was some climbing done on the Fortress in the late 1960's and early 1980's. These slabs are essentially undeveloped. The Fortress offers excellent potential for new moderate pitches. In 1995 Potero John Wall was retro-bolted with fat 3/8" bolts and additional anchors were added. This turned what had been a collection of runout 1/4" spinner horror-shows, into a friendly and fun place for the moderate climber. All five bolted routes are worthwhile. When you climb the insecure, tricky seam in the middle of the face, Menage a Trois, 5.10b, remember the route was first climbed in EBŐs and protected only by wired stoppers in 1976 by "Hot" Henry Barber and Yvon Chouinard. The bolts appeared recently. After your day of climbing be sure to check out the numerous swimming holes nearby. There is a great barefoot boulder traverse over the big pool 200 yards upstream. Fall off and you're wet.
Nearest town or city: Ojai
Directions: The Sespe Wall is located 17 miles out of Ojai on Highway 33. A half mile beyond the Sespe Wall is a group of rock slabs on the south side of the road. The eighty-foot-high blank wall at the far left is Potero John Wall. Camping in nearby USFS campgrounds, including Pine Mtn. Check USFS website for locations.
Latitude, Longitude:
Access Issues:
Camping: Yes
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Day

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Forum Discussions (3 posts)

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
With Replies New Route at "the Fortress" climbingeek 1 Jan 20 2007, 8:35 PM
With Replies Sketchy Lead Bolts at Potrero John climbingeek 1 Oct 18 2006, 3:53 AM
With Replies Two new lines? ride 2 Aug 07 2004, 5:35 PM