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This is a large ridge area running North to South with awesome domes and cliffs on all sides. Very secluded and scenic with views of the 13,000' Sierra Crest. Domes up to 900' high with mostly slab climbing. Lots of vertical with some overhanging walls and caves. The southern peak is Shuteye Peak 8,351' where the fire lookout is located. This was 1st manned in 1907 and the current structure was erected in 1957. The northern peak is Little Shuteye Peak 8,362'. Curiously Little Shuteye is actually taller than its nearby brother by 11 feet! A dirt road winds its way up through Cedars, Firs and Sugar Pines to a saddle between the two. It then becomes a rough 4x4 road to the lookout bordered with Western White Pines and Jefferys. Shuteye was originally named after a native Mono Indian who resided in the area and lost one eye in an accident.
The rock is granite varying from Granodiorite to Quartz Monzonite depending on location. The weathered nature of this granite creates holds more like limestone than granite. Pockets, pinches, incut edges and drippy chickenheads. Unlike its nearby neighbor Yosemite Valley the granite out here is highly featured and unpolished with more face climbing oppurtunities than splitter cracks. Dreamscape, Queensthrone, Chiquito, Talon, High Eagle, Aerie, Shangri La, 557s Dome, Cat Nap, Electric Eagle, Bastion, Gray Eagle, Red Eagle, Minerva, South Eagle Beak, North Eagle Beak, Fallen Eagle, Eggs, Rock Creek, Incinerator, Big Sleep, Voodoo Child, Crocodile.--
Please contribute any knowledge of routes, boulders and walls. The guide has long been out of print and many climbers have contributed to the growing route list.
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