Routes : North America : United States : Missouri : Central Missouri : Providence : Ancient Sea Friends
PreviousAncient Sea Friends - 5.11b V2
Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 17
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
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Kevin Capps 2010
Rock (Sport)
Bouldering
G
1
mixed, 7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor
60
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Description:
About 20 - 30 feet to the right (south) of Next Time, Send a Card, route goes up the wide dihedral. Take a 2.5" - 3.5" cams to protect moving into the base of the main dihedral. A good cam placement makes this route very well protected.Descent Options:
rap or lower
Submitted by: kcapps on 2010-04-30
Last Modified: 2013-02-19
Views: 1297
Route ID: 104593
Most Recent Photo
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1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11b V2 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
11ish feel
Lower slab feels no harder than 5.9 moves. This applys to any move below the main dihedral roof, for at this point, the route turns into a different beast.
To pull the main roof, most climbers head out left, following the horizontal crack, then attack the upper dihedrel. I suggest using the undercling on the roof, a high step with the left foot, to gain the main horizontal edge on the face of this upper dihedral. The left hand moves off the undercling and works up a thin crack until standing upright while pressing on the upper roof. Step high and right with the right foot while converting the upper roof edge into a series of underclings and pinches. Reach far right to next obvious hold (hatchet) to gain the top hold (ax head). Now clip to rap anchors.
To pull the main roof, most climbers head out left, following the horizontal crack, then attack the upper dihedrel. I suggest using the undercling on the roof, a high step with the left foot, to gain the main horizontal edge on the face of this upper dihedral. The left hand moves off the undercling and works up a thin crack until standing upright while pressing on the upper roof. Step high and right with the right foot while converting the upper roof edge into a series of underclings and pinches. Reach far right to next obvious hold (hatchet) to gain the top hold (ax head). Now clip to rap anchors.
Added: 2013-02-17
