| Directions: |
Description
Disappearing Buttress sits across the small drainage just north of the Illusion Crags. It's approximately 500' high and offers quality rock and much climbing potential on generally south facing rock.
Prime Rib climbs the most prominent line up the south face, giving four pitches of excellent climbing of about 5.7 difficulty.
From the lowest point of the south face, scramble 4th/easy 5th class up to a large ledge, below and left of a pine tree. From here, the first pitch climbs cracks just right of the crest, then up the crest, passing to the left of a square-cut roof. Belay on a good stance a short distance above.
Continue slightly right of the ridge crest, following a curving crack, then trend left and back to the crest. Follow the crest more or less directly upwards, with belays possible at several small stances.
Climb on the crest or slightly right of it to a final steep headwall. Climb this from the right to a big, comfortable ledge.
A short pitch going right leads to the top.
The route can be broken into a variety of pitch lengths, depending upon what belays are chosen. The first ascent did the climb in four pitches.
The second ascent, done in Feb., '09, climbed left of the crest in several places, and used a couple of pitons, still in place.
Location
The route climbs the central prominent rib on the south face of the buttress. Descend west along slabs and ledges, and then back to the base. A quick, easy descent.
Protection
Standard rack to 3". |
Sequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes.
