Routes : North America : United States : Oklahoma : Southwest : Baldy Peak-Quartz Mt : Atlantic : 3-Bolt
3-Bolt - 5.7

Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (14)
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Strangely enough, gear + several bolts
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Description:
First pitch climbed by Terry Andrews and Larry Osborn, 1978. Terry had to drop the rope and wait for Larry to climb up over him and lower a rope after he went farther up the dihedral than the belay spot and got scared. Second pitch climbed by Terry Andrews and Greg Schooley 1979. Starts with a short layback on a huge rough flake; rest of pitch is a big traverse under a short "roof" (relative to lowish-angle slab) with bomber feet to reach a two bolt belay (belay was originally composed of three bolts hence the name). Big and small cams (no medium). 2nd pitch starts with a scary hard move up into the bulge and then reach right for a jug and a pull over the overhang to a great splitter crack. At top of crack go right and up, clipping one bolt on the way. Entire route done without bolts originally, bolts were added after the first ascent.
Submitted by: okieterry on 2006-01-16
Views: 1449
Route ID: 62994
14 Ascents Recorded
Record an ascent
Read all 14 ascent notes
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | G |
Only got to lead the first pitch but loved the route
Very varied climbing. Wish the crack was 100 feet longer. :)
Added: 2012-03-05
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | G |
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pretty good
Climbed it in one pitch. I wish the hand crack section was a lot longer.
Added: 2010-11-07
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.8 |
Safety Rating | G |
a
A
Added: 2009-12-15
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Second
Seconded Elie on this. What a fun route, with a bit of every type of climbing, nearly. Will do this again and again. I will apologise if I do this so many times it becomes polished!
Added: 2008-03-02
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.7 |
Safety Rating | G |
Exposure | ![]() |
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Led
A great 5.7 route. The first pitch to the stance is a great start, but only 5.6. The move of the stance is a good 5.7. Once the 5.6 super jam crack is gained the route continues at no more than 5.6 to a great place to view the surrounding countryside. Rappel needs 2 ropes or a 70 metre rope to avoid downclimbing the last 10 ft like we did.
Added: 2007-11-18