PreviousRoundabout - 5.10d
Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Joe Chavez and Pat Uhtoff
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
G
3
few bolts and mostly gear
315
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Description:
Pitch1 goes up through 4 small roofs using small gear and clipping 5 bolts then traverse up and right with a good 20 ft. run out to anchors.Anchors are on the right slightly hidden behind the right side column.THE HORN they talk about slinging after the 5 bolt,is broken off and is NOT THERE ANYMORE(100ft.) Pitch 2 climb up and left through the crux placing tiny gear and then the climbing eases way off to 5.7 for the rest of pitch2 (150ft.) and pitch 3(65ft.)This route is for very experienced climbers familiar with alpine loose rock and placing gear on severely run out terrain.USE CAUTION.Descent Options:
scramble up through crunchy loose rock to the summit
Submitted by: gordy on 2010-06-04
Last Modified: 2010-06-06
Views: 888
Route ID: 105145
1 Ascent Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.10d |
| Safety Rating | R |
| Exposure |  |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Hang Dog ascent by:
Gordy climbs Roundabout
This route was fun,but not one of my favorites on Pilot.The rock was rotten and crumbly.Its neighbor Crash Landing is a much funner route ,with a great flow,good rock,good placements.and a super cool leaning chimney on the second pitch.I guess the second and third pitch of Roundabout are 5.7 after the horribly ,crumbly,roof crux 10.d that starts off the second pitch,10ft above your belay partner.I took a good 15 ft. fall there on a really small friend in crud rock.It held,thank god or it would have been a good 25 footer at least.The moves on this route arent that hard ,but the run outs and poor rock quality,not to mention, it was wet and slimey ,from the rain the day before ,made it feel much harder.If you decide to do this one ,wear your helmet,and be a good 5.11 leader.I thought I was until I did Roundabout.For adventurouse alpine trad, 5.8 to 5.11,on good flowing quality rock in southern Oregon I recomend Acker ,Rabbit Ears,Mckinley,and Old Man and Old Women Spires.They have the goods!
Added: 2010-06-07
