Moolack
Climbing Sections:
- Fist-Fighting Plumbers (2)
- Goldband (2)
- Guillotine Band (1)
- Makeover Band (1)
- Mosserati Area (1)
- Pedestal Area (5)
- Pleasure Palace (4)
- Pledge Crack Area (2)
About Moolack:
| High quality crack climbing area, on a south facing cliff-band along the Aufderheide Memorial Highway 19 leading out of Westfir, Or. The area is a NO-BOLTS climbing site with convenient cracks for leading and trees for anchoring. Some routes require gear midpoint anchors. Most routes are over 30 meters, a 70 meter rope can be essential, even for just safe-toproping. All routes that have been developed here required extensive cleaning and route preparation, so be careful venturing into virgin terrain as loose rock is extensive. Both onsighting and headpointing has been part of the rich tradition of "trad" climbing here. The current publishing (2012) hosts information for more than 70 routes, but the cliff is far from tapped out. Bill Soule is the areas original developer. With no bolts, evidence of route development is limited to oral exchange and what has been printed in Northwest Oregon Rock. The area hosts bouldering, but it is not a primary focus, and is still in its exploratory mode. |
| Nearest town or city: | Westfir, Oakridge, Eugene |
| Directions: | Moolack is located on the west side of the Cascades. From I-5, take exit 188-A in south Eugene towards Westfir, Oakridge and LaPine. After passing the town of Pleasant Hill travel Hwy 58 on the south bank of the Dexter Reservoir. Exit Hwy 58 to get on the Auderheide Memorial Road 19, at a junction located near the regions Ranger Station. Road 19 goes through the small town of Westfir before becoming the well maintained and well traveled recreational byway. If you are travelling from central or eastern Oregon, Hwy 58 is accessable south of LaPine. From 19 turn right onto the clearly labled branch road 1944. The road dips, then crosses over a bridge and the road forks; take the left fork onto FSR 750 and travel east with the cliff-band now to your north. After turning onto FSR 750 the cliff becomes visible on the left. FSR 750 terminates in a parking lot with a sign for the Fischer Creek Trailhead. On foot Fischer Creek Trailhead intersects with the river. Cross the log-bridge and walk through the campsites. A set of boulders marks the start of the steep scree field below Moolack's cliff-face. Fifteen minutes of arduous uphill hiking connects you to a well-established trail. This trail will switchback to the cliff-bands base, at the bands extreme right or eastern edge. West of an eastern edge hike-around, routes begin, unfolding right to left along a cliff-base trail. |
| Latitude, Longitude: | 43.87410, -122.15400 |
| Access Issues: | NO BOLTS. Moolack is a no bolts climbing area. Do not place bolts, do not add trails |
| Camping: | Yes |
| When to Climb: | Spring |
| Quantity of Climbs: | Lifetime |
Forum Discussions (1 posts)
| Subject | Author | Replies | Last Post | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
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Moolack Corrections and Additions | ire510 | 0 | Oct 19 2012, 1:17 PM |
