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Red River Gorge quantity & quality, but it requires some work to get there. Most requires some backcountry commitment and desire, but if you are looking to escape the crowds and enjoy some natural, virgin rock, then this is the place.
A memorandum dated 6/25/96 from the managing federal agency (National Park Service) is still on file in the visitor's center detailing access issues. Climbing is allowed, but not within 100 feet of established points of interest including developed and non-developed overlooks. Power drills have been banned within the "Gorge" or non-developed area. The following areas are closed for climbing within 100 feet: All arches, Chimney Rock in No Business area, Chimney Rocks at Station Camp, Devil's Cave, Yahoo Falls, and Maude's Crack. This memo may be outdated now, however, there was no further information available in the visitor center as of March 2003.
But there is plenty of eligible rock, sport trad, mixed, bouldering; words can't convey the amount of sandstone here. It's a lot.
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