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Routes : North America : United States : Texas : South Central Texas : Enchanted Rock State Park

Enchanted Rock State Park

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About Enchanted Rock State Park:

Enchanted Rock has the distinction of being the only extensive and good granite in the state of Texas. You'll find slabs, steep slabby face climbing on micronubbins and good 30' cracks and bouldering.

If you are a strong boulderer, proficient in granite cracks then the best way to tour E-rock is without a rope. Most of the best routes are moderate highballs in the V1-V3 range, with many harder problems available.

Enchanted rock is the second largest monolithic dome (blathosphere) in the country, second only to Stone Mtn. in Georgia. There are actually 2 domes with a few other outcrops surrounding them. The park has a very large variety of high quality granite routes.

The backside of main-dome has the largest concentration of long bolted routes, consisting of a tremendous number of one pitch slab climbs of all levels, some of which are quite runout.

The Motorboat Rock/Lunch Rocks area is nearby at the end of Echo Canyon. Avoid this area like the plague; it is where all guiding companies and general beginner climbers converge and tends to be quite busy (although it has a number of good routes).

Turkey Peak has a small collection of routes that are slightly different from most others in the park due to the incut nature of the granite. You will likely encounter tourists here and you are guaranteed to BAKE in any type of hot weather.

There are many, many other small climbing areas around the park. Most of them are within about a 20 minute approach; I think the longest I've ever hiked to get to a route is about 45 min. Be very careful of cactus and keep an eye out for snakes. Also, take plenty of water.

Camping at the park often needs to be reserved in advance, and is known for being a haven for noisy Boy Scouts. Additional nearby camping is available at the Oxford Ranch (http://www.oxfordranchcamp.com/), which is supposedly very climber friendly. A seperate campgrounds for climbers in in the works.
Nearest town or city: Fredricksburg
Directions:

From Austin:
Approx 100 miles, going west on 290 (a few miles on 281) 'till Fredricksburg, then turn onto FM 965 for 30 minutes.


From San Antonio:
Take I-10 W. out of town past boerne to just past the comfort exit. Take the Fredericksberg exit off I-10W and turn right onto the highway that the exit takes you to (sorry, don't remember the number). On the other side of the highway when you exit there is a dairy queen and a couple of other fast food stops. If you're going the correct direction, you'll pass the comfort high school on your right within about 30 seconds. Follow this highway all the way into Fredricksburg and turn left on the main street (you'll see the Nimitz Museum across the street when you get to the intersection). Follow the main street for about a mile and keep your eye open for the sign to e-rock; it will be a right turn on milam st.(FM 965). Follow this road out of Fredburg for about 20-30 min and you'll be right at the entrance to the park. The first view of the park over the hill is fantastic!


From Dallas:
Take I-35 south to Georgetown, take exit 261 and go west on Hwy. 29 to Llano. In Llano, take Hwy. 16 south for approx. 18 miles, turn right onto FM 965. Follow FM 965 for 8 miles to the park entrance.
Latitude, Longitude: 30.49589, -98.81996
Access Issues:
Camping: Pay
When to Climb:
Quantity of Climbs: Year

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Forum Discussions (See all 28 posts )

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
With Replies Best guidebooks for Erock? trevmanbearpig 1 Nov 09 2012, 2:18 PM
With Replies Looking for a climbing partner to E-Rock justplainchic 3 Mar 06 2012, 3:36 AM
With Replies Going to E-rock mhallman25 3 Feb 18 2011, 10:51 PM
No Replies Found: Static Ropes/biners acorneau 0 Nov 10 2010, 1:18 PM
With Replies First time out... knfstar 5 Jan 23 2010, 2:46 PM
With Replies Anyone climbing here (Enchanted Rock) this weekend? andersjr 1 Dec 04 2009, 9:33 PM
With Replies Enchanted Rock Guidebook Lethal-Climber 4 Aug 27 2009, 4:39 PM
With Replies Enchanted Rock Multipitch elholando 2 May 09 2008, 7:58 PM
No Replies Left gear on Triple Cracks climbingaggie03 0 Dec 04 2007, 6:30 AM
With Replies Waypoints at E-rock nplattii 2 Nov 29 2007, 6:03 PM
With Replies first trip to enchanted rocks... need info please boonecountyrocks 6 Nov 18 2007, 1:56 PM
With Replies E Rock T-day weekend-questions gordo 3 Dec 01 2007, 4:07 AM
With Replies less crowded areas twelvestringtex 4 Nov 05 2007, 3:49 AM
With Replies Cave Crack twelvestringtex 6 Jun 12 2007, 6:36 PM
With Replies Enchanted Rock northfacejmb 21 Jun 09 2007, 10:25 PM