London Spire
About London Spire:
With long approaches and massive exposure the climbing here is reminiscent of the Tetons, the main differences being the altitude and popularity. All of the climbs are at least 10 pitches and require a full day, don't underestimate them because of there relatively low difficulty ratings. Not much information is available on any of these climbs so come prepared and bring an adventurous spirit. The rock here is solid but like all alpine climbs there is some loose rock so test your holds and bring a helmet. |
Approach: | To get to London Spire from I 15 take the first exit to Willard then head East to highway 89 then head to the town's center we too 655 S and found a little dirt pull out, but it may be on private property, but anywhere around 600 s to 655 S would be a good starting point. From there basically head straight up, we started to climb the first foothill from the gate on the dirt road where the canal goes under ground (this road may be accessible with your car). From the top of the first foothill you'll gain the ridge from here follow the ridge but try and stay on the north side of it, with one exception about half way up, when in doubt go left. After 2 1/2 to 4 hours you'll reach the base of London Spire. Note: there may be a better way to get to the base of London Spire so ask around and do a little research but this way worked for us. |
Approach Time: | 2 1/2 to 4 hours |
Latitude, Longitude: | |
Access Issues: | The only access issue would be were you park and hike the first twenty minutes |
Rock Type: | Quartzite |
Type of Climbing: | Trad |
Sun Aspect: | Afternoon Sun |
Routes
Sequence![]() |
Rating | Route | Difficulty | Ascents |
---|---|---|---|---|
0 |
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Direct North Face III | 5.9 | 0 |
0 |
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Northwest Ridge III | 5.7 | 0 |
0 |
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Original North Face IV | 5.9 | 0 |
0 |
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South Face III | 5.7 | 0 |
0 |
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Southwest Ridge III (8) | 5.7 | 1 |
0 |
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West Face III | 5.7 | 0 |