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Mother #1 - 5.7
Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
Pro to 4", medium to large cams / hexes. An offwidth piece (say 4.5 to 5 Camalot) is nice.
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Description:
5.7+. This is the offwidth crack to the right of Balwdwin's Chimney. Starts as a large flared crack, the upper portion of the climb narrows to a more manageable hand/fist crack. Approximately 100', descent is from rap chains 40' to climbers right (w/ 60m rope), or continue to top and rap from the backside of the Parabolic Slab (see Nautilus photo at top of section listing).
Submitted by: holmeslovesguinness on 2004-08-11
Views: 1159
Route ID: 38039
Most Recent Photo
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8 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 8 ascent notes
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| Difficulty | 5.7 |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure |  |
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Onsight ascent by:
Harder Than Hell.
This was a tough off-width climb. I am not terribly experienced in OW. 5.7 seemed like a good start for the weekend but man was I wrong. it was harder than "Finally" a 5.9 so I guess this was good motivation to work my OW technique. I had 2 #3s but 2 #4s and 2 #5's would have been nice instead of only 1. I also used the 6 on the chimney part. Thought I would puke with exhaustion at the end.
Added: 2010-07-26
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|---|---|
| Difficulty | |
| Safety Rating | G |
great
had to do the slab
Added: 2008-06-29
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Ascent Note
No comment
Added: 2004-07-11
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Hang Dog ascent by:
Ascent Note
Oooowwww. What a beating - my first real offwidth at Vedauwoo, I have the battle scars to prove it. The hardest 5.7 I've ever lead - had to hang for a rest after the chimney moves and to go snag my big camalot just in case I needed it higher up on the route (which I didn\'t). Really an awesome climb, very nice line.
Witnessed by: Tom P
Added: 2003-07-13
Added: 2003-07-13
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Top Rope ascent by:
Ascent Note
A good route, the rap off the hyperbolic slab is the best!
Added: 2003-05-20
