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ABS competition as seen by a competitor

Submitted by compclimber on 2001-10-14

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I show up to the competition around 5:00 after battling with traffic and register. When I register I learn that the climbing will start at 6:00 so I hang out with some friends and prepare mentally for the climbing. At 5:45 I listen to the rules and regulations for the competiton and start putting on my shoes and tape up my fingers. At this competition you have to have 2 people, that witnessed you climb, sign off on the problem so my friends and I decide to climb together.

We head upstairs to the bouldering area as soon as they turn the competitors loose and I procede to "warm up" on a problem I never did complete. After trying that problem about 5 times I head down stairs to give some attempts on a couple of high ball problems that were up on the "lead climbing cave". I try one of the easier problems and do it 6th try after falling from the last 2 moves for the other attemts and nearly missing the pad on one attempt. I give one of the hardest problems in my catagory a couple attempts and almost do it second try, that was my best attempt on the problem. I decide to go back upstairs after some prompting from my friends and, after I give one more attempt on the highball problem, I go back upstairs and do a problem using nearly all jibs with some cool high step moves.

I put in a few attemps on a problem using all jibs that climbs up a corner on small pinches I can only do the first two moves so with half an hour of climbing left I go back down stairs to do some easier problems. After completing my 6 scorable problems I go and sign up for the dyno comp and take a little break. [page] With ten minutes left I go back and throw myself at the highball problem that I couldn't do earlier but end up not sending it. I call it a night and prepare for the dyno comp.
I am competitor number 15 in the dyno comp and get ready to hear my name called out. They call it and I go over to the first dyno, I set my hands on the first hold free my mind and place my feet on the designated holds. I lurch up once and then drop back down to straight arms and then launch up and grab the finishing hold, for a second and fall back down when I can't control it.

The comp is over for me so sit down and watch the rest of the dyno comp. It ends in a three way tie and one of the competitors named Chris Simmons static's nearly every move of the dyno comp. In the end John Stack takes the honors (and cash) of 1st place in the mens open and Jen lemaire takes 1st in the womens open catagory.


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