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Training and Technique

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Rockprodigy Revisited: An Interview with Mike Anderson - 2014-12-01 by Paul Nelson

Rockprodigy Revisited: An Interview with Mike Anderson Eight years ago, Mike Anderson wrote a training article for this site that has become the most viewed page on We managed to get an interview with him, in which he talks about training, progression, and the new book he wrote with his brother Mark, The Rock Climber's Training Manual.
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Votes: 0 | Comments: 0 | Views: 4028

Program Design for Climbing Part 2: Sport-Specific Training - 2014-10-02 by Douglas Hunter

Second in a series of articles on training program design. Here I describe the basic criteria necessary for a training activity to be considered sport-specific.
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Votes: 0 | Comments: 0 | Views: 2319

Safer Rappelling on Multipitch Climbs - 2009-04-06 by Patrick Weaver

Safer Rappelling on Multipitch Climbs AMGA-certified guide, Patrick Weaver, presents a system for checking rappel rigs and setting up rappels and points out situations in which rappellers should proceed only with due caution.
Average Rating = 4.00/5 Votes: 2 | Comments: 4 | Views: 24981

Damnit, Jim, I'm a Climber Not a Carpenter - 2008-12-18 by Long Ta

Damnit, Jim, I'm a Climber Not a Carpenter A guide to campus-board building for dummies.
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Votes: 6 | Comments: 9 | Views: 21133

The Mental Toughness Error - 2008-11-14 by ARNO ILGNER

The Mental Toughness Error Craig was pumped and needed to make a decision quickly. His last protection...
Average Rating = 3.84/5 Votes: 19 | Comments: 28 | Views: 13244

Deliberate Transitions are Ambiguous - 2008-07-01 by ARNO ILGNER

Deliberate Transitions are Ambiguous Climbing is full of transitions and how you negociate them will determine how deliberate you climb. Transitions, however, are full of ambiguity and climbers tend to rush these transitions or stall out in them.
Average Rating = 3.81/5 Votes: 27 | Comments: 19 | Views: 15514

Learning How to Learn - 2008-03-20 by ARNO ILGNER

Learning How to Learn Most climbers avoid the learning process by looking for tricks or techniques to get around the stress or fear that is inherent in learning. This won't work. You must go through the stress and fear to learn. Here's how...
Average Rating = 4.21/5 Votes: 34 | Comments: 27 | Views: 42134

Hiking Tips - 2007-08-26 by evans mwangi

When you are camping, one of the most fun thing you can do is go on a hike. It is great exercise; you can enjoy the outdoors, and you can see beautiful scenery. However, there are some dangers to hiking and you should be prepared for all events in order to remain safe and ensure you have a good time. Planning is essential so that you are not caught in a situation where you are not prepared.
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Votes: 0 | Comments: 0 | Views: 6761

How To use Trekking Poles - 2007-08-26 by evans mwangi

Using trekking poles while hiking and/or trekking can be an extremely useful and effective item to use during your trip. A trekking pole is basically an advance form of a hiking stick. They are made from aluminium, so they are lightweight and collapsible, which makes for easy storage. A trekking pole is available for purchase at most outdoor activity shops, and are well worth every penny as the trekking pole can benefit you in several ways during your trekking, especially when you know how to use them properly.
Average Rating = 1.33/5 Votes: 3 | Comments: 2 | Views: 9403

Roped Solo Free Climbing - The essence of self-reliance, one path among many - 2007-06-08 by Healyje

Roped Solo Free Climbing - The essence of self-reliance, one path among many One person's roped soloing setup for free climbing. This system was arrived at after thirty years of many trials and thankfully few errors.
Average Rating = 4.22/5 Votes: 18 | Comments: 22 | Views: 63517

Balancing Act - 2007-04-18 by ARNO ILGNER

Balancing Act Possibility drives us to do things, many times to the detriment of other parts of our lives. Possibility, tempered with appropriateness, can guide us to deeper levels of learning and connections with our world. Possibility, tempered by appropriateness, will help us take risks that allow us to learn and reduce chances of injury. Let's see how this plays out in climbing.
Average Rating = 4.53/5 Votes: 15 | Comments: 8 | Views: 10414

The Making of a 'Rockprodigy' - 2006-09-06 by Mike Anderson popular

Tenacious D said it best: "There's no such thing as a rock prodigy, 'cause rock 'n roll is bogus, right KG?" Nevertheless, I still pursue it. What follows is the gory details of my personal journey to "rock prodigy" status.
Average Rating = 4.85/5 Votes: 27 | Comments: 18 | Views: 138798

Motivation Justification - 2006-03-17 by arnoilgner

Where does your motivation come from, sending routes and ticking them off your list OR from what you learn from the experience? Sit back, read, and see how you may be justifying your motivation.
Average Rating = 4.00/5 Votes: 3 | Comment: 1 | Views: 10950

Serious Fun - 2006-03-17 by arnoilgner

Can you have fun and still be serious and disciplined about climbing? Top climbers seem to be able to. --This is a companion article for Justification Motivation. This article looks into the climbing magazines for examples of motivation.
Average Rating = 4.00/5 Vote: 1 | Comments: 0 | Views: 8262

Footwork basics - 2006-03-16 by overlord

This article covers the basisc of footwork, e.g. placing of your feet to the rock. If youre looking for heel hooking, drop kneeing or similar advice, look alsewhere. But if you want to learn how to "make them stick" youve come to the right place.
Average Rating = 4.27/5 Votes: 11 | Comments: 4 | Views: 41811

Advanced footwork techniques - 2006-01-25 by Rasto Jereb

This article is the sedcond part of my "dissertation" on footwork. It covers some more advanced techniques like heel hooks and kneebars. And it even (drumroll) has some pictures.
Average Rating = 3.86/5 Votes: 14 | Comments: 2 | Views: 37155

What Not to Do at a Comp! - 2006-01-23 by okieterry

This is a true story. All I can say is that I no longer possess the all encompassing desire to excel that led me down this road....
Average Rating = 4.50/5 Votes: 16 | Comments: 10 | Views: 13504

Help! My Power is Leaking! - 2006-01-15 by arnoilgner

We all have ample amounts of power to climb, but we tend to waste it. Our power leaks away due to disempowering behaviors. By understanding ways we waste power we reduce those leaks and are better able to focus on the task at hand.
Average Rating = 3.00/5 Votes: 2 | Comments: 0 | Views: 10882

Finger & Back/Arm Strength - 2005-12-28 by greatgarbanzo popular

Finger & Back/Arm Strength Learn how to get wire like fingers and strengthen your arms and back in the process!
Average Rating = 4.82/5 Votes: 11 | Comments: 19 | Views: 149496

FUERZA DE DEDOS & ESPALDA/BRAZOS. - 2005-12-28 by greatgarbanzo

Aprende a desarrollar dedos como guayas!!!!
Average Rating = 2.50/5 Votes: 2 | Comments: 2 | Views: 56382

How to Tape Your Fingers (también versión en Español) - 2005-12-28 by Giancarlo Costagliola

Taping is a technique that, if used correctly, will prevent injuries during training or really hard climbing. You can also use it to rehabilitate an existing injury.
Average Rating = 4.25/5 Votes: 4 | Comments: 3 | Views: 84867

Feeling Safe is Dangerous - 2005-08-17 by arnoilgner

You think staying in your comfort zone keeps you safe. No so. Only by getting out of your comfort zone and into risky situations do you understand risks properly.
Average Rating = 4.00/5 Votes: 2 | Comment: 1 | Views: 12546

Why Are You Taking a Risk? - 2005-08-17 by arnoilgner

Complimentary article to "Feeling Safe is Dangerous". Looking into the climbing mags for examples of why climbers take risks.
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Votes: 0 | Comments: 0 | Views: 9789

Some Questions for Evaluating and Choosing Training Activities - 2004-09-24 by fluxus

There are many training techniques advocated by climbers, but how can we tell sound training advice from things that sound cool but that don't work? This article covers five questions you can use to seperate real training from hype.
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Votes: 3 | Comments: 0 | Views: 14511

How To Construct Your Own Home Climbing Wall - 2004-05-14 by no_limit

This article will aid anyone in building a home climbing wall, by assessing your needs, choosing a design, construction tips, and choosing holds.
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Votes: 2 | Comments: 0 | Views: 28038

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