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Rock Climbing : News : Ascents : Mount Hunter's 23yr ascent gap finally bridged by Brits

Mount Hunter's 23yr ascent gap finally bridged by Brits

Submitted by labyrinth on 2007-05-24

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by labyrinth

14,570-foot Mt. Hunter's forgotten French Route (left of the Moonflower Buttress) was tackled for the second time by Britons Jon Bracey and Andy Houseman a whole 23 years after the first ascent.

Bracey told the media in an email that their starting point was met with average weather. They traversed the couloir's crux overhang and steadily conquered the ice fields but were slowed by 'sustained mixed climbing… and a lack of bivi sites'.

They reached the summit around 9pm. According to Bracey: "The ground after the cornice bivi was quite time-consuming, with one section of steep, rotten ice. A cold night was spent on the plateau below the summit. On the fourth day we descended the West Ridge back to Kahiltna base camp via the Northwest Basin. A great route and amazing effort by the first ascensionists back in 1984."

The Moonflower Buttress's first's ascent overshadowed the original 1984 conquering of The French Route, also known as the North Buttress Couloir by Benoit Grison and Yves Tedeschi in four days. This however proves that a 23 year gap between the first and second ascent speaks volumes of the route but even more of the climbers.


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