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Climbing Disciplines:
Trad Climbing:
Re: [jsh] Trad head, warriors way, and bad advice:
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iamthewallress
Feb 15, 2007, 6:04 PM
Views: 2624
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
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jsh wrote: Remember all of Dawn's early, big falls?
I don't b/c when I got into 'trad' and started looking for info, Dawn had been at it for maybe 2 years (I'm not exactly sure) and was no longer writing about taking falls at that point. IIRC, she was a bit averse to taking them. In any case, I began reading rec.climbing via her tradgirl digests, and I thought that she was really a font of wisdom and an experienced authority on all things trad.
Having climbed with Dawn and read her posts over the years, I think that she's a really smart cookie who's used pretty good judgement throughout her climbing career and had a good perspec[tive on a lot of things even as a relative beginner. For that I am lucky b/c as you said, it took years to realize that having experience generally takes even more years.
One thing that I recall from rec.climbing that has actually been useful to me, but I've never been able to find again was this time that someone's troll pseudonym (I think it belonged to Nate), layed into me for trying to short cut my way to my goals instead of paying my dues getting solid with my skills. At the time I thought, "What do you mean?! I climb every minute that I can!" True, but I hadn't been climbing every minute that I could long enough to have earned the climbs that I was feeling someone entitled to be able to go do given my effort. My path to get to some of them might be a 15 year path instead of a 5 year path, and it might end short of some of them as well. The need for most people to take the long path towards a broad range of skill (vs. honing your wicked power on a focused set of skills) is probably a major reason why many if not most of the folks doing stuff like freeing El Cap are over 30.
(This post was edited by iamthewallress on Feb 15, 2007, 6:18 PM)
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