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Re: [qwert] Three-point Equalette:
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dan2see
Mar 5, 2007, 4:01 PM
Views: 8757
Registered: Mar 29, 2006
Posts: 1497
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qwert wrote: it isnt a x exactly, but i follows the same principles.
Hey Q! cool diagram! 
 Now, why didn't I think of that?  Your "sliding W" works pretty good!
qwert wrote: so i need 3 biners, where you need six (asuming that one needs a seventh, clipped trought the three power points, to connect to harness and belay device, since i would consider it highly impractical and uncomfortable to have four biners on your belay loop) qwert
I use two parallel slings for redundancy: if the single sling fails, you are airborne.
When you compare the Sliding-X to the Equalette, the difference is in the friction where the sling strands rub against each other, when the rig tries to self-equalize. According to John Long's "Anchor" book, that X friction under load stops the equalization. This makes it dangerous when it catches a fall. The equalette's extra biners solve that by routing each strand through its own biner.
Actually, that rubbing also depends on the size of the locker. Using my gear, the W actually jams under load with most of my lockers, and it slides smoothly through the big end of a Petzl Attache.
Should try cord instead of sling, I bet that would solve the jam problem. 
(This post was edited by dan2see on Mar 5, 2007, 4:13 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by dan2see
() on Mar 5, 2007, 4:13 PM
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