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Re: [binrat] Proposed Anchor Rigging:
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paulraphael
May 17, 2007, 4:43 PM
Views: 22994
Registered: Feb 6, 2004
Posts: 670
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binrat wrote: WHAT Another one??..............just joking. Looks easy to set up but have you tried to shock load it yet?
Yeah, I know ... yet another one. We're hoping to gather enough interest so that someone volunteers to perform a drop test with load cells. My partner says I don't pay him enough to take a voluntary f2 fall.
The questions I'd like to resolve with a test are:
1) how efficiently does it distribute the load ... which is pretty academic because I'm sure it does a good enough job. but people might want to know.
2) how much cord strength is lost with the various adjusting knots. This question strikes me as the important one. I especially want to see results with a slopily tied knot, because it's inconvenient to thoroughly dress an overhand on a loop tied in two strands.
For my working calculations I've been assuming a loss of 50% strength (a very weak knot), but it's not wise to assume anything with knots.
3) what are the real world peak forces possible with extensions of 6 inches, 12 inches, 18 inches, etc.. Largo's book touches on this, but it would cool to see tests that include a real belayer.
(This post was edited by paulraphael on May 17, 2007, 5:00 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by paulraphael
() on May 17, 2007, 4:46 PM
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Post edited by paulraphael
() on May 17, 2007, 5:00 PM
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