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Re: [paulraphael] Proposed Anchor Rigging:
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trenchdigger
May 17, 2007, 5:20 PM
Views: 22953
Registered: Mar 9, 2003
Posts: 1447
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paulraphael wrote: trenchdigger wrote: This is identical in function to the Trango Alpine Equalizer. Yes, but it requires no specialized gear, weighs less, costs less, and can be used in many different ways.
I'll give you three of the four, but the Alpine Equalizer definitely weighs less 
paulraphael wrote: trenchdigger wrote: The system lacks redundancy at the master point (outside of attaching the rope to an additional piece). Yes, this is discussed at length in the document. In most cases I consider it a tradeoff and not a deal breaker.
To me it is. I feel that a majority of the time, redundancy is far more important than equalization, and I feel that redundancy at a single point is optimal. I'd prefer not to autoblock belay my partner off a non-redundant master point.
paulraphael wrote: trenchdigger wrote: You also do not want to clip multiple carabiners to the rap ring power point. Loading multiple carabiners in the power point will abnormally load the power point. Not in any way that I've found. The ring is symetrical and has no weak axis. It also loads the carabiner closer to its strong point (next to the spine) than a multiistrand cordelette. Maybe I don't understand what you're getting at.
Loading multiple carabiners at once in a ring like that will put an outward force on the ring and could even theoretically magnify the loads in the right situation (similarly to the way making the angle between cordelette arms too obtuse magnifies loads). Picture three carabiners clipped to the rap ring. Now load the outer two. Not only are they pulling down on the ring, but also pushing outward. Hope that makes the point clear. I don't think it's especially dangerous, but it has potential for unusual loading. I think using a large locking carabiner (like the DMM Boa) might be better in place of the omega ring.
paulraphael wrote: trenchdigger wrote: There is also a way to tie something very similar to this out of a cordelette and have a standard tiedcordelette style master point which should be better/safer to clip than a rap ring. I've seen a number of these proposed. Some offer more levels of redundancy, but all are slower, more complex, and offer more oportunities for tying incorrectly. I haven't been able to find any case against the ring as a safety liability.
The one I'm thinking of offers no redundancy (unless you tie limiter knots or clove hitch a piece) but is tied similarly. You can easily use a ring/rings for the sliding point(s) and still have a soft master point. I'm still looking for that photo....
You can also achieve something very similar using the rope. Clove hitch a single piece, run the rope through the biner on a second piece, and clove hitch a third piece. Pull the loops down between the outer pieces and the inner piece and clip them as your master point. The drawback comes when you're not swinging leads or need that extra 10' of rope to reach the next belay. Also, that system only gives you 25/25/50 equalization.
(This post was edited by trenchdigger on May 17, 2007, 5:44 PM)
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Edit Log:
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Post edited by trenchdigger
() on May 17, 2007, 5:21 PM
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Post edited by trenchdigger
() on May 17, 2007, 5:44 PM
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