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Re: [paulraphael] Proposed Anchor Rigging:
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trenchdigger
May 17, 2007, 6:32 PM
Views: 22884
Registered: Mar 9, 2003
Posts: 1447
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paulraphael wrote: I think redundancy needs to be looked at in context. Most people are satisfied with a single rope and a single harness, because the faiure rates of these items are so low. So the question is, what is the likelihood of failure of a loop of 7mm nylon cord? Slim, I agree, but 7mm cord fails much more easily than a 10mm rope or a harness. I would be happy hanging from your rig, but I'd be a little pissed off if you belayed me up to the anchor off a reverso or ATC Guide clipped to the non-redundant master point.
paulraphael wrote: There's no correlation between multiple biners on a ring and load multiplication with slings. The ring is safer in virtually every way than a locking biner. The advantage of the larger locking carabiner comes from its size and greater strength. See my attached sketch to hopefully explain what I mean by unusual loading of the ring.
The blue ring represents the OP rap ring. The red circles represent carabiner cross sections clipped to the ring. If the carabiners end up in an orientation where the angle theta is greater than 60 degrees, load multiplication occurs - just like when you exceed 120 degrees between arms in a multi-point anchor.
paulraphael wrote: I've seen a number of these proposed. Some offer more levels of redundancy, but all are slower, more complex, and offer more oportunities for tying incorrectly. The link binrat posted can be tied with an eight on a double bight instead of their funky knot. Doing that results in a setup very similar to yours, but with a soft master point which I prefer for the reasons above. It's only slightly more complicated to tie than your proposed system which is a non-issue since you're leaving this as a pre-tied system anyway.
(This post was edited by trenchdigger on May 17, 2007, 6:32 PM)
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Post edited by trenchdigger
() on May 17, 2007, 6:32 PM
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