|
|
Forums:
Climbing Disciplines:
Trad Climbing:
Re: [rgold] Falling on a screamer.:
Edit Log
|
|
papounet
Jun 4, 2007, 4:20 PM
Views: 6468
Registered: May 28, 2003
Posts: 471
|
I have been in the situation described by rgold: having to move around above the anchor.
not so perfect solution: autoblocking knot on the rappel rope, extended by using a spare 7mm cordalette
One of the very few tether setup that provides safety from ff2 (apart from tying with the rope)
take 1m50 of 8,5 climbing rope
at one hand make a bight (doubleoverhand on a bight aka barrel knot for example)
put a locking biner in it
at the other end attach to your harness leg and belt
take 40cm of 6 cord
position an kleimheist knot on the rope
attach the cord to the belay loop
slide the knot to adjust tether
in case of fall, both the dynamic properties and the setting of the autoblocking knot would limit the maximum fall factor.
or use a modified Purcell setup (where the Prusik is made on a shorter strand to allow fthe full length of the cordelette to be used
or us the Kong Slyde
http://www.kong.it/doc408.htm
Although I used to like very much the combination dynamic rope + Ropeman, this report made me change my mind
http://www.hse.gov.uk/...df/2001/crr01364.pdf
This report "Industrial rope access - Investigation
into items of personal protective
equipment" tested:
Ropes
• Back-up devices
• Ascenders
• Descenders
• Lanyards: fall arrest and cow’s tails
• Knots: termination and prusik
• Anchorage loadings
• Rope protectors
(This post was edited by papounet on Jun 4, 2007, 4:26 PM)
|
|
|
Edit Log:
|
|
Post edited by papounet
() on Jun 4, 2007, 4:22 PM
|
|
Post edited by papounet
() on Jun 4, 2007, 4:26 PM
|
|
|
|
|
|
