moose_droppings
Jul 23, 2007, 1:54 PM
Views: 3464
Registered: Jun 7, 2005
Posts: 3371
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mattltambor wrote: A Jesus nut is the first piece of pro you place after the belay - it keeps you from enduring a factor 2 fall should you come off the wall. Just one piece between you and the belay can make all the difference...
According to the Yates website, a FF1 and up to just below a FF2 with a redirect will creat more forces on the top pro than FF2 because of the pulley effect. So maybe we ought to think about a screamer on all of our Jesus pieces, or just take the FF2.
(This post was edited by moose_droppings on Jul 23, 2007, 2:56 PM)
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