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Re: [lena_chita] training with a weighted vest?:
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mturner
Jul 31, 2007, 3:49 PM
Views: 17042
Registered: Dec 17, 2005
Posts: 980
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lena_chita wrote: However, I find using weights rather useless for actual climbing b/c as overlord said, it changes your gravity center and for me it means that for any sort of bouldery dynamic move on anything overhanging the weights pull me back and off the wall, and the move ends up feeling totally different than without the
This is obviously not ideal. If you are going to use weights keep it to climbs that you can do most of the moves static. Dynamic moves with a weight belt is a good way to get hurt (although it can be done).
I've trained with a weight belt several times, including a three week program this summer before the peak of my climbing season/trips. I did climb better, but was doing other things as well so it's hard to say for certain how much I can equate to the weight belt. Some notes though: as stated, this technique will pretty much only improve your finger strength and should not be used for technique training. Also, some mentioned not training on crimps and I think this is crap. Granted you shouldn't be training on holds that are too small for you but if you want to climb better on crimps then you should train on crimps. After warming up and fooling around on the latest stuff for an hour or so, I used to try to do 10 problems in 20 minutes at or one grade lower then my onsight level with about 15 pounds. I never did problems that I hadn't done without my weight belt (injury saving) and always climbed without my weight belt first to get a significant warmup. I found that my ability to hold on to a crimp become more efficient and comfortable. I will also admit that I started campus training with a weight belt but would not recommend that as the risks almost seem to outweigh the rewards.
(This post was edited by mturner on Jul 31, 2007, 3:50 PM)
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Post edited by mturner
() on Jul 31, 2007, 3:50 PM
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